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Source: (consider it) Thread: Heaven: Knitting and all things crafty
Autenrieth Road

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Ena, since big people stuff is the same as preemie stuff, just bigger, that means you already are a competent knitter who can knit big stuff if you want to.

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Truth

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Autenrieth Road

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My very first flickr photo! Artistic composition of office rug, travel mug, and hat.

The ribbons are for tying under my chin because it's otherwise too loose -- I'm not good at knitting elastic knits. IIRC it's from Homespun, Handknit. I knit it during the televised court hearings over G.W.Bush's first election.

Fuchsia lining which you can see slightly through the unblocked lace outside. Yes, those are two colors of blue. I was using up ballends.

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Roseofsharon
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I am still plodding away at the item I was just about to start when I began this thread. The reason it is taking so long is because I do not like the overall colour effect., so can work up little enthusiasm for it.

I ordered the kit for a capelet in mitred squares from a stall at Alexandra Palace in the autumn. I'm pretty sure that the one I tried on was 'jasmin', but within a dozen squares it became clear that I was making 'mirage', which has a preponderance of orange amd green in it, and looks, to my eye, rather 'muddier' than the illustration.

Anyway, enough moaning about it, I have a little problem:

Because of the arthrtitis in my hands I do not have very good grip, and knit rather loosely these days. I have to knit on smaller needles to get the tension correct. What I like about these mitred squares is that the most stitches I have on the pins at any time is 35, but now there are a good many squares, and quite a weight of knitting hanging from those 35 stitches, and it is going to get heavier (I'm on square 38 of 74).
I am finding that as the number of stitches on the needles gets less as the mitre reduces, the weight of the work pulls my loosely knitted 'squares' into a kite shape.
Picking up the stitches for the adjoining squares pulls them back into shape, but some of the squares 'pouch' a bit.

I just wonder what, if anything you all do to support the weight of a nearly completed garment so that it's not all hanging off the stitches left on the needles.

As a knitter only of small items in the past, this has not been a problem for me before.

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Mrs. Candle
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# 9422

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Are you using straight needles? If so, switching to circulars should help. You use them as if they were straights, but the weight is divided between the two needles which is easier on the hands and on your work.

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Je suis le président de Burundi.

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Lothlorien
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# 4927

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I'd second the advice about circulars but with a couple of provisos. I too have arthritis which shows in hands and multiple other places as well and use knitting as therapy. Circulars are good but before you buy, at the very least hold them as if you were knitting. In some brands, the actual needle part is quite short and this makes my hands worse, not better.

The other point to check is the join. Some brands are actually lumpy and the fabric catches over the join.

If knitting as if using straights, they should work well if you are comfortable. If you change to knitting a hat etc in the round, be careful. It's very easy just to keep knitting around and around and around and...You need to rest and stretch hands and fingers. That's why I prefer double pointed for socks etc. At least I change hand position at the end of every needle.

Finally...this won't help the weight but with smaller articles which aren't so heavy, consider using casein needles. These are made in Australia by Swallow and come in several brands. Casein is a milk protein and the needles are warm, slightly flexible and just wonderful for arthritic fingers. Google on something like Swallow + knitting + needles. I find regular glucosamine is a good help too. Doesn't solve everything but is a definite help. particularly in hips and ankle pain.

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Lothlorien
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Here's the link for Swallow needles. Just bliss to use

Lots of reviews found with a Google search.

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Buy a bale. Help our Aussie rural communities and farmers. Another great cause needing support The High Country Patrol.

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Firenze

Ordinary decent pagan
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Anent my previous about colour - I have had this brilliant idea for my next knit.

I have been leafing through all my designer and pattern books, all my back numbers of Vogue and Knitters and nothing is calling to me.

Then it came to me.

I shall knit my own Tom Thompson.

I am very fond of the paintings of TT and the Group of Seven, and I have a great many postcards, prints, calendars and books, so I have plenty of references. I grant that Lawren Harris might be simpler, but I so love the oil sketches of pines or birches against lakes.

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daisydaisy
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quote:
Originally posted by Roseofsharon:
I am still plodding away at the item I was just about to start when I began this thread. The reason it is taking so long is because I do not like the overall colour effect., so can work up little enthusiasm for it.

I know what you mean - I am knitting a shawl in a yarn that looked so pretty on the net (the colour name included the word "summer") and that I could imagine myself wearing this summer - but it is actually more "winter" colours that I can only just imagine myself wearing at a push at any time of the year.
The things that keep me going are a) stubborn-ness and b) the thought of what I want to knit next (maybe the same shawl but in "summer" colours that I buy from a real shop!!! The only trouble is that it is so time consuming that I think my attention span might be rather challenged! Maybe first I shall do a quick-to-finish hat which is high on my to-knit-list)

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Roseofsharon
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quote:
Originally posted by Badfundie:
Are you using straight needles? If so, switching to circulars should help. You use them as if they were straights, but the weight is divided between the two needles which is easier on the hands and on your work.

Thanks Badfundie, and Lothlorien for suggesting the use of circular needles. I have never used these, so can't envisage how they can alleviate the weight problem. I will have to experiment.

The casein needles look interesting, Lothlorien. I have been recommended bamboo before now, and have one pair - but not in the correct size for the current project, so have not tried them. I have so many pairs of needles (mostly in very small sizes, dating back to the 1940s and donated by ex-knitters) that I am reluctant to buy more unless they are going to get a significant amount of use.
I think I would have to break my habit of sucking the end of the needle while checking the pattern instructions if I was using casein! [Big Grin]

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Ena
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Thanks all!

I love the Multidirectional Diagonal Scarf, that's just the sort of thing I'd like to try. Colours are good, but it's stitch patterns that really interest me. I like knowing exactly what I'm doing! I think I have a fair amount of patience - but not enough to knit a blanket! [Overused]

The thing about preemie stuff is it's so tiny you don't need to do much shaping, and there isn't space to mess up the pattern much! But thanks, AR, I think it's time to start the big girl stuff.

They don't like yellow for preemies because it make the skin look jaundiced and so detecting actual jaundice is harder. Very few places here (SE England) sell preemie stuff - my friend ended up using a stretched egg cosy! Of course, it's vital that the teenies are kept warm. I think pretty much all hospitals accept knits, providing they're fairly clean. This sort of thing is where I got the idea from.

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Emma Louise

Storm in a teapot
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BB - the square I have just done is just like that!! st st in the middle but 3 knits either end [Smile]

I really like the art of knitting for "funky" and modern ideas - and in emma-friendly colour wool. Im not too good with imagining things in other colours, so it helps me if the pattern is in a colour I like in the first place!

I prefer the effects of the different stitches to different colours personally.

On the changing colours thing... Ive just done my first atttempt at this ( a diamond in a square) - although it looks fine on the fornt Im not sure Im doing it right. The magazine is usually really good at explaining things with pictures but Im not sure Ive sussed this at all!

When it says twist the yarns at the begining and end of the colour - that **does** end up twisting the woool doesnt it (so thatyou then need to unwrap the 2 balls of woolk drom each other after?) or is that somehow not like that?

When you change colour in purl - it shouldnt take forever to do each stitch should it?

Do you just let the other colour wool drop or do you try to hold both?

Hmmm. I think I might need to explain some of those queries irl but I thought Id see if anyone follows my problem!!!

The next square is garter and "fake" rib I think [Smile] [Smile]

Ill see if i can find a link to the ones Im doing or put a photo up - its muchly exciting!!!

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Roseofsharon
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My first grandson was a premmie, so I knitted a few things for him, and some to donate to the SCBU. I bought my patterns from a market stall, which had a surprisingly good selection...some were dolls' clothes patterns, the largest sizes suitable for prem babies. I like the look of that Ray Of Hope site, and might use some of the baby wool from my store to knit some more for the hospital.

My grandson has an abnormally small head, so finding small enough hats when he was new was quite a problem. Bonnets were definitely not acceptable to his parents, so my proudest moment was when I 'downsized' a baby helmet with shaping like the linked pattern. Unfortunately I didn't keep a note of the alterations, so couldn't repeat it for other premmie boys.

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Ena
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OK, a question for all you lovely knitters: what does is

''slip next two stitches individually as if to knit, put tip of left needle into slipped stitches and knit them together''

What's the difference from: 'knit 2 together'?

ETA: the baby helmet is lovely, ROS - I hadn't seen one before!

[ 13. February 2007, 18:32: Message edited by: Ena ]

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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kentishmaid
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As far as I can tell from my magazines, it's that you do the knitting of the two while the stitches are on the right needle instead of the left. However, I haven't actually attempted this yet, as all the patterns I've used have used K2tog or PSSO to decrease.

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"Who'll be the lady, who'll be the lord, when we are ruled by the love of one another?"

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Ena
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It says you can do:

slip one as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over

instead - is that basically cast off 1? Is it easier? [Biased]

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Roseofsharon
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quote:
Originally posted by Ena:
''slip next two stitches individually as if to knit, put tip of left needle into slipped stitches and knit them together''
What's the difference from: 'knit 2 together'?
[/QB]

I'm trying to visualise this, not having wool and needles handy. It sounds as though it makes the resulting stitch 'turn' to the right, instead of the left, do you do a normal K2tog at the opposite end of the row?

ETA: the alternative option, sl1 K1 psso is easier to do for the same effect

[ 13. February 2007, 18:54: Message edited by: Roseofsharon ]

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Ena
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The whole row is:

Inc, SSK (or SKP throughout, your choice), turn

(have increased by 1 st)

SSK = slip next two stitches individually as if to knit, put tip of left needle into slipped stitches and knit them together
SKP = slip one as if to knit, K1, pass slipped stitch over

Now inc I can do. The rest looks harder... thanks for the help!

[ 13. February 2007, 18:54: Message edited by: Ena ]

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Autenrieth Road

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Ena, the one you describe is called Slip Slip Knit, abbreviated SSK.

SSK results in a left-leaning decrease, with the stitch on the right overlapping in front of the stitch on the left.

K2Tog results in a right-leaning decrease, with the stitch on the left overlapping in front of the stitch on the right.

(At least, they lean in different directions. I haven't got needles in my hands to double-check which way.)

kentishmaid mentions PSSO, which is like SSK in terms of which way it leans and which stitch overlaps.

Some people see a difference in how PSSO vs. SSK looks and prefer one or the other. I find SSK easier to do, so I use that, even if the pattern says PSSO.

Do you know about pairing K2Tog with Your Choice Of Other-Leaning Decrease, i.e. either PSSO or SSK, for symmetry and straightness?

[cross-posted with everyone since kentishmaid's post!]

[ 13. February 2007, 18:56: Message edited by: Autenrieth Road ]

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Autenrieth Road

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quote:
Originally posted by Ena:
Inc, SSK (or SKP throughout, your choice), turn

(have increased by 1 st)

Ena, I'm puzzled. Those instructions seem to give a row that is decreased by half the number of stitches on the row! You increase 1 at the beginning, but then spend the rest of the row decreasing. Are there Yarn Overs or something in there? Or YO's in the previous row that are now being decreased back out?

Separately: Given Roseofsharon's alternate diagnosis of which way K2Tog vs. SSK/PSSO lean, I hold even more to "I know K2Tog goes in a different directions from the others, but I don't know which is which!"

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Truth

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daisydaisy
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quote:
Originally posted by Ena:
SSK = slip next two stitches individually as if to knit, put tip of left needle into slipped stitches and knit them together

I came across SSK for the first time in the pattern that I'm knitting at the moment (Shoalwater shawl) and googled, getting the same instructions that you quote.
I found following these directions cumbersome, and realised that it is the same as K2tog through back of stiches that I am more familiar with - the effect is to make the stitches lean in the opposite direction to K2tog.

[ 13. February 2007, 19:26: Message edited by: daisydaisy ]

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Ena
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Ah, I see. I think. I'll give it a go, anyhow!

AR, I think perhaps the increase 1 might have only applied to the start. At any rate, the picture looks like it should be decreasing there.

Thanks for all the help - I'm saving these pages!

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Ena
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So, ROS, I could: slip one, knit one, pass second stitch back over first? [Cool]

AR,
quote:
Do you know about pairing K2Tog with Your Choice Of Other-Leaning Decrease, i.e. either PSSO or SSK, for symmetry and straightness?

nope! [Hot and Hormonal] should I?

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Roseofsharon
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It would probably help if we knew the shape you are hoping to achieve.

I am visualising something that is sloping from a wide base to a narrow apex:

If the slope is on the R hand side only (with the front of the finished fabric facing you) you would decrease near the beginning of the row using either of the methods you have mentioned (my preference is to Slip a stitch, Knit the next and then Pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one). Do not do some rows SSK and some SKP.

If the slope is on the left-hand side of the finished piece, then the decrease is a simple knit 2 together at the end, or within a few stitches of the end of the row.

If there is an equal slope on either side, then you do what Autenreith Road referred to, pair your 'Knit 2 together' at the end of the row with whichever option you prefer to get your decrease to slope the other way at the beginning.

I hope you cn make sense of this, or that a better knitter than i am can explain it better. If not, i'll actually try it out on pins tomorrow, and put up a phpotograph on my Flickr site!!

This has taken so long to type out that I've probably Xposted with several others, so I'll apologise now [Hot and Hormonal]

[ 13. February 2007, 22:03: Message edited by: Roseofsharon ]

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Autenrieth Road

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The reason for pairing decreases is because they slope in different directions.

If both sides of a V-neck knit from the top down are decreased with the same kind of decrease, the two sides will be asymmetrical. Because the two sides are mirror images, you want mirror image, a.k.a. paired, decreases.

For a heap of decreases in one row, if you use the same decrease stitch for all of them it will create a swirl pattern in a hat (design choice), or give the knitted fabric a twist in a straight item (usually less desirable).

I have noticed that lace patterns often do not bother to even out the decreases between one type or the other. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I sometimes adjust the lace pattern to use the two kinds of decrease equally. And sometimes I don't. For Eyelet I don't bother, but for Feather And Fan I do. It satisfies my mathematical drive for symmetry.

SSK is not exactly the same as K2Togtbl because the latter results in two twisted stitches overlapped into one; the former, in untwisted stitches.

Here are a whole heap of illustrated increases and decreases.

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Truth

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Autenrieth Road

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quote:
Originally posted by Autenrieth Road:
SSK is not exactly the same as K2Togtbl because the latter results in two twisted stitches overlapped into one; the former, in untwisted stitches.

P.S. this may be a distinction that only a mathematician could love!

Roseofsharon, interesting that you find SKP easier than SSK. I'm exactly the opposite (hate fiddling with that passing-over bit).

Decreases, like cast-ons & cast-offs, are clearly highly personal!

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Truth

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daisydaisy
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quote:
Originally posted by Autenrieth Road:
quote:
Originally posted by Autenrieth Road:
SSK is not exactly the same as K2Togtbl because the latter results in two twisted stitches overlapped into one; the former, in untwisted stitches.

P.S. this may be a distinction that only a mathematician could love!

I hope so [Big Grin]
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babybear
Bear faced and cheeky with it
# 34

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When knitting a piece that needs to be symmetrical, eg the back of a sweater, then it doesn't really matter which decreases are used as they all get rid of the same number of stitches. Any slight difference can be easily overcome by blocking. Also the decreases are normally tucked away in the seam of the garment and aren't on show.

If the decreases are going to be on show, then it is definitely worth taking the time and the effort to make them symmetrical. It can seriously improve the look of the garment.

---

I have just started knitting socks in 6 ply yarn. I have only made them in 4 ply before and this sock is motoring away! I am at a bit of an impasse just now as I need my husband's foot to check fit. He has been a tad selfish and has taken his foot (well both of them!) off to work with him.

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chukovsky

Ship's toddler
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Has he not left some socks behind that you can match it up with?

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This space left intentionally blank. Do not write on both sides of the paper at once.

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Ena
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YES! I think I get it [Yipee] For those interested, it's for the pattern BB posted previously - where it says 'short row section'. I'll have to see which decrease I find easier!

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Roseofsharon
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quote:
Originally posted by Autenrieth Road:
Roseofsharon, interesting that you find SKP easier than SSK. I'm exactly the opposite (hate fiddling with that passing-over bit).

I suppose it's just a matter of what you are used to, I had never come across SSK before reading this thread. When I tried it I found putting the point of the L-hand needle through the two slipped stitches a bit fiddly, but no doubt that would improve with practice.

I'm glad you posted that link, as I have serious doubts about my ability to produce a sufficiently clear photograph myself! [Smile]

[Stitched up the code -- Mamacita, Heaven Host]

[ 14. February 2007, 14:38: Message edited by: Mamacita ]

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babybear
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quote:
Originally posted by chukovsky:
Has he not left some socks behind that you can match it up with?

My first reaction to that was "Gosh, you're clever. Why didn't I think of that?! [Eek!] " I then realised that I am making a different style of sock to the ones that he has, and so I do need to see it on his leg/foot.

Ena, I have used that pattern twice and have used k2tog and SSK. I prefer the look of k2tog, but any method would be fine, as long as you are consistent with it.

Posts: 13287 | From: Cottage of the 3 Bears (and The Gremlin) | Registered: May 2001  |  IP: Logged
Autenrieth Road

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quote:
Originally posted by Ena:
Inc, SSK (or SKP throughout, your choice), turn

quote:
YES! I think I get it [Yipee] For those interested, it's for the pattern BB posted previously - where it says 'short row section'.
Ah, Short Rows! [Ultra confused] (* Runs screaming from the room and hides under large afghan *) [Ultra confused]

I see my confusion: I read it as Inc, *SSK*, repeat between *s to end, turn rather than Inc, SSK, turn. Short rows baffle me -- I can only do them by following directions rigorously, and their effect is entirely mysterious (as well as magical) to me.

Now I'm doubly mystified that short rows can both put lumps in things, as in sock heels, or also be used in flat things, as in the multidirectional scarf.

Is that the same technique as used in entrelac? (Have only read about entrelac, not done it.)

[ 14. February 2007, 12:28: Message edited by: Autenrieth Road ]

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Truth

Posts: 9559 | From: starlight | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged
Roseofsharon
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quote:
Originally posted by Roseofsharon:
[Stitched up the code -- Mamacita, Heaven Host]

What was wrong with it?

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Ena
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quote:
Ena, I have used that pattern twice and have used k2tog and SSK. I prefer the look of k2tog
OK, BB, double triple quadruple check: though kK2tog is NOT the same, here it works just as well?

Sorry to have slightly hijacked the thread with my confusion!

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Ena
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ETA: should I be worried about short rows, AR? It's that ominous 'turn'...

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Autenrieth Road

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LOL, IME the turn is the least ominous, apart from remembering to do it when there's still a whole bunch of row available to knit!

Not a hijack at all -- I adore this stuff, and judging from others' posts, they all adore it too!

The pattern doesn't seem to require any of the ominous potential short row techniques that always make me nervous such as slipping stitches, wrapping stitches, or bizarre increments of keeping count. It makes me think my short row fears are outdated and unnecessary!

You're inspiring me to want to try this out too.

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Truth

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Ena
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So at the turn...you just...turn the needles round and knit the same x many stitches you've just done again?

Go on, do the scarf too - it looks really fun! Then you can help me when I get stuck! [Cool]

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"Flying through rock is next week's lesson, Fletch" (Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

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Autenrieth Road

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Yup.

At least, that's how I read it -- babybear who's actually knitted this would be the one to say for sure. Go ahead, give it a try. What's the worst that can happen? [Smile]

[ 14. February 2007, 18:13: Message edited by: Autenrieth Road ]

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Truth

Posts: 9559 | From: starlight | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged
Autenrieth Road

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Does anyone know how to sew a lock stitch by hand? That is, similar to what a sewing machine does. I presume I'd be using two needles. This is to fix some leather glove seams.

The edges are sort of butted together and overcast sewn (using the term vaguely rather than technically), rather than overlapped and sewn with a straight stitch. Or maybe someone knows some other good method for hand-sewing leather (suede really, lined with fuzzy stuff) glove seams?

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Truth

Posts: 9559 | From: starlight | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged
Autenrieth Road

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Ah, ummm, triple posting because I'm a ninny and didn't Google first (on sewing leather).

Anyone who has experience I'd still be happy to hear from you!

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Truth

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Ferijen
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Knitting novice signing in with a probably obvious "how do you do that" question?

I'm doing a very basic blanket for a baby - a basketweave pattern surrounded by a garter stitch (that is just knitted isn't it?) border. So I've got a repetitive pattern, 8 rows "long".

How do I keep track of which row I'm in? I mean, I can just about work out by looking at it where I'm up to, but is there an easy way of keeping tabs (I thought about marking my pattern with a pencil dot or something, but I'm sure that would get confusing). Do real knitters work it out, or do they have an abacus or something to say they're on row 8 or whatever (it was worse when I was trying out the 19 row double basket pattern).

//end of silly question. But I do recommend the book "Knitting for Dummies". Does what it says on the tin, as they say...

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babybear
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Ena, don't worry. [Big Grin] It is a beautifully simple pattern, but one that gives delight to the mathematically inclined.

It doesn't matter which decrease you use, as long as you are consistent. Choose the one that you like best.

With one of the scarves I cast on 21 sts.
In row 1 I knitted into the front and back of the stitch (to make a new stitch), then k2tog. This gave 3 stitches on the right hand needle. Then I turned the work around, just as I would if I had come to the end of a row and knitted back across those 3 stitches.

In row 3, it was knit into the front and back, knit 1, k2tog, turn. Row 4 knit across 4 stitches.

On each odd row the number of stitches knitted is increase by 1. After a few rows you will not have to count at all, you will be able to see the gap when you knitted up to the last time, and you k2tog (or whatever) with one stitch from either side of the gap, thereby eliminating it.

By knitting into the front and back of the first stitch on each odd row a subtle, but rather nice decorative edge is formed.

It really is a good simple pattern after you have done a few rows. It gives a great deal of 'Wow!' for very little in the way of stitches and technique. It looks desperately impressive, especially if knitted in a self-striping yarn.

Ferijen, I am probably not the best person to ask about keeping track of which row it is. When I was knitting a mini-shawl all I had to do was decrease by one stitch every 4 rows. I discovered that I could not reliably count to four! One of the easy ways to do it is to get a notepad (or envelope) and a pen. When you complete a row, make a mark on the paper and then you can easily see just how far you have progressed. I didn't do that (because I am oh so clever and can count to 4 (yeah sure!)).

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daisydaisy
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The blanket sounds great, Ferijen.

The pattern that I'm knitting right now has rows 29 to 75 repeated 4 times, then rows 29 to 50 once more. As it increases 4 stitches every other row (finishing up with 449 stitches) I will certainly forget which number row I'm on by the time I get to the end of it unless I make a note of where I am [Frown]

So this time I've been making a pencil mark on the pattern each time I finish a row. I shall rub all the marks out when I finish in case I use the pattern again or lend it.

But I've also got a row counter that looks a little bit like the number bit on a combination padlock - each time I finish a row I increment the counter - but I find I get so engrossed in my knitting that I forget to do it [Hot and Hormonal]

I'd be interested to know what others do.

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Lothlorien
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quote:
Does anyone know how to sew a lock stitch by hand? That is, similar to what a sewing machine does. I presume I'd be using two needles. This is to fix some leather glove seams.

The edges are sort of butted together and overcast sewn (using the term vaguely rather than technically), rather than overlapped and sewn with a straight stitch. Or maybe someone knows some other good method for hand-sewing leather (suede really, lined with fuzzy stuff) glove seams?

I remember my dad used to make gloves in suede when I was small. I'm sure he used what was called "glove stitch" which seemed to be a straight stabbing stitch, possibly with two needles. Try a search on that term and you might find something. This was a long time ago, and the stitch may have been called a different name in northern hemisphere.

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Posts: 9745 | From: girt by sea | Registered: Aug 2003  |  IP: Logged
Autenrieth Road

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Thanks Lothlorien, voilà I found glove stitch -- and it requires only one needle! That site has an embroidery stitch glossary to die for as well.

Searching on glove stitch mending found me this vintage guide to all about sewing gloves. For anyone here who's had enough of knitting gloves [Smile] .

This sampler is very clever -- this is the kind of thing that appeals to my mathematical mind. (It happens to use glove stitch among others, though doesn't describe it).

And these embroidery projects have me salivating and thinking it's been too long since I did any embroidery.

I want to do an embroidery of the Morris dancing Ilmington hey pattern.

But first to mend these gloves! And try out the multidirectional scarf! And make a case for my crochet hooks! And, and, and...!

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Truth

Posts: 9559 | From: starlight | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged
Mrs. Candle
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Ferijen, I would be lost without my row counter. Mine looks like a little barrel and it slips right onto the needle so it's not too easy to forget to change the number at the end of the row and it's always with the piece I'm working on, so I don't have to remember where I left it. The abacus sounds like a good idea, too.

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Lothlorien
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There are row counter bracelets available too, although I usually just count.

Learning to read your knitting is an invaluable skill to have. Once you start looking closely as you knit, you can see the pattern emerging, did you decrease last row or is it this one etc. Simplest reading shows whether it's purl or plain row in stocking stitch.

If you look at your knitting often, you may find that you can pick up errors quickly. Saves a lot of frogging later and sometimes frogging lots of knitting.

[ 14. February 2007, 23:34: Message edited by: Lothlorien ]

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Buy a bale. Help our Aussie rural communities and farmers. Another great cause needing support The High Country Patrol.

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Cranmer's baggage

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I've put the knitting aside for a few days in favour of the sewing machine. A couple of days ago I finally faced up to a project I'd been procrastinating on for weeks - I'm being ordained in 10 days, and I need a cass-alb (aka cassock-alb or ecumenical alb) - the garment loathed by all in Eccles. Being a short plump person, I'm hard to fit off the rack, and those things are not cheap. I have a black cassock that was made to measure for me years ago, and I decided to cut a pattern from that and make my own.

When I came to it, I was frozen with fear over the pattern-cutting stage for ages. Don't know why - I've done it heaps of times before for basic skirts & tops. Ended up in tears of incomprehension and frustration over the pleats.

Anyway, I finally got the jolly thing cut out, then realised when I started sewing that I'd goofed the back. I've managed to salvage the situation by cutting a separate yoke and making a few other 'minor' adjustments. I'm not quite done, but I'm at the point where I think the thing is going to work. Feeling absurdly proud of myself.

Back to the machine...

[ 14. February 2007, 23:47: Message edited by: Cranmer's baggage ]

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Eschew obfuscation!

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Emma Louise

Storm in a teapot
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I'm trying to learn to "read" my knitting. Ive worked out what a purl stitch looks like a few stitches into a row so i now know if its a purl or knit row I shoudl be doing from the knitting.

I brought some extra chunky wool and some big needles to make "something" with. Its been great to play with and just to experiment with "what happens if I.." Like ferijen Ive kept some garter stitch either end, ofr this im just playing with rows of purl and knit producins say 7 rows of st st and then a few of garter and then "what happens if i keep purling" etc!! Problem is i dont really know names for it.

I meant to stop as squares to sew together later but seem to have produced about 1/3 of a scarf. I might need to buy another couple of balls to finish! Knitting on big needles with a chunky wool is addictive [Big Grin]

Although having an interest in things mathematical - I too appear to be unable to count. Ive done "tell partner thing sat next to me every time i change" but i find i just keep going so when i say "im on row 8 again arent I" he replies, "last time you said anything it was row 4".

Singing to myself "im starting row 4, Im starting row 4, im in row 4 im in row 4 im finishing row 4 im finishing row 4, im starting row 5 ..... etc" to made up tuns seems to work... but I began questioning my sanity so I have brought a row counter today. I havent tried using it yet - i think i may still get carried away and forget to count so will have to train myself to make it as automatic!!!

One of the weeks of "art of knitting" had a little crotchet flower in it, so I also brought a crotchet hook and have enjoyed making that [Smile] [Smile]

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Autenrieth Road

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I have my row counter strung on a small yarn loop, and have that attached to a split ring marker. I put this on my needle a stitch or two from the end. That way I'm forced to notice it as I slip the ring, which reminds me to change it. This way it counts how many rows I have finished. If you prefer to count which row you're working on, put it a stitch or two from the beginning of the row instead.

Another method is to make a safety-pin chain equal to the number of rows you need to count. Pin it to the bottom of the work. Every time you finish a row, put a saftey pin in the row near the end. When you use the last safety-pin off the chain, you have finished your rows.

Variations: Only mark the right-side rows. And/or use a chain for the number of rows in a repeat, and reassemble the chains when a repeat is done. If you do that, you could make a separate chain to count and mark each repeat as a whole... depending on how finicky the pattern is and how much you get sick of counting over from the beginning.

The advantage of the safety pins is that even if you forget for a few rows, the remaining safety pins on your chain tell you how much to do, you can catch up and mark the finished rows, and you can easily recount/check the number of safety pins already affixed to rows.

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Truth

Posts: 9559 | From: starlight | Registered: Oct 2005  |  IP: Logged



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