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Source: (consider it)
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Thread: Heaven: Geek Bail-Out: it's computering question time! 2016
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mousethief
Ship's Thieving Rodent
# 953
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Posted
I think my mouse is dying. It has started to "let go" when I am drag-and-dropping, or sliding a control. I just changed the battery quite recently, so I'm not thinking that's it. It's wireless. It doesn't have any problem clicking. Just staying clicked when I'm doing something that requires clicking-and-holding.
It's a PC model, three buttons and a wheel, wireless, Logitech.
My thinking is that it's either the contacts in the mouse itself, or the signal temporarily dropping out. Maybe more likely the first, because if I press and hold REAL HARD then it drops out much less often.
Time to get a new mouse? Thoughts on tests I could run to see what's going on? Tear it open and spray WD40 on the contacts?
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This is the last sig I'll ever write for you...
Posts: 63536 | From: Washington | Registered: Jul 2001
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Bene Gesserit
Shipmate
# 14718
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Posted
Oddly enough, we swapped our mouse out this week as the one we were using was doing some strange things - unlike your mouse, though, ours was increasingly acting as though every single click was a double click.
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Sancta Maria, Mater Dei, ora pro nobis peccatoribus
Posts: 405 | From: Flatlands of the East | Registered: Apr 2009
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Penny S
Shipmate
# 14768
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Posted
I am having to replace my main Win 7 laptop. The keyboard needs replacing, and the build is such that the keyboard is a part of the top, which is not available except as a second hand part at about £170. The keyboard part could be replaced with the original melted out, more cheaply than that.
Fortunately, the nice man who knows what he is doing has a laptop someone took in to repair, and then, when the work was done, left it, and said he wasn't going to collect it. £200. About a year old.
I had a very good secondhand HP from the same source in the past which is still going well. He's going to check it will do for me first. And if it won't, there are machines about the same price at John Lewis.
Reloading all the software looms.
[ 25. August 2016, 16:35: Message edited by: Penny S ]
Posts: 5833 | Registered: May 2009
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Lamb Chopped
Ship's kebab
# 5528
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by mousethief:
I think my mouse is dying. It has started to "let go" when I am drag-and-dropping, or sliding a control. I just changed the battery quite recently, so I'm not thinking that's it. It's wireless. It doesn't have any problem clicking. Just staying clicked when I'm doing something that requires clicking-and-holding.
It's a PC model, three buttons and a wheel, wireless, Logitech.
My thinking is that it's either the contacts in the mouse itself, or the signal temporarily dropping out. Maybe more likely the first, because if I press and hold REAL HARD then it drops out much less often.
Time to get a new mouse? Thoughts on tests I could run to see what's going on? Tear it open and spray WD40 on the contacts?
If you can safely do it, open it and see if you've got dust bunnies in there. You wouldn't believe what some mice pick up. You might also check to see if there's a new driver available.
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Er, this is what I've been up to (book).
Oh, that you would rend the heavens and come down!
Posts: 20059 | From: off in left field somewhere | Registered: Feb 2004
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mousethief
Ship's Thieving Rodent
# 953
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Posted
I have all of a sudden started getting emails from a thing called empowr telling me I'm a member and asking me to do various things to increase my account balance and so forth.
What is this? I do not have any record of joining them, I don't know what it is, and I want to get the hell out of it before giving them any information intentionally or inadvertently. I unsubscribed from their email but that didn't work, or hasn't yet, or something.
Does anybody have any experience with this?
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This is the last sig I'll ever write for you...
Posts: 63536 | From: Washington | Registered: Jul 2001
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Wesley J
Silly Shipmate
# 6075
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Posted
It's some sort of scam, according to quite a few websites and blogs. Some obscure moneymaking machine with apparently no clear rules and T&Cs and a couple of bot members.
I'd suggest to mark it as spam, and let your mail programme do the (deleting) rest.
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Be it as it may: Wesley J will stay. --- Euthanasia, that sounds good. An alpine neutral neighbourhood. Then back to Britain, all dressed in wood. Things were gonna get worse. (John Cooper Clarke)
Posts: 7354 | From: The Isles of Silly | Registered: May 2004
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
Some email safety tips.
If you do not recognise the name of the sending organisation, you likely do not belong to it. If you are uncertain, do a websearch and try to ascertain their purpose from a third-party website, not their own.
If you do recognise and do have association, do not click the link in the email. Go to their official website and communicate there.
Never give account information through email, even to your email provider. Do everything through the account panel.
Try to avoid using preview pane.
Do not open suspicious email in the inbox, send to trash/junk and open there, if you feel compelled to open it at all.
Set your junk and trash folders to not allow scripts to run or images to display.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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Ricardus
Shipmate
# 8757
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Posted
Not sure I should admit his here but ... ![[Paranoid]](graemlins/paranoid.gif)
Chrome has stopped displaying ads. I've not got an adblocker and all the results on Google seems to assume I want to block ads, not display them.
Any ideas? I've got Avira Browser Safety (the free version) and I'm on Windows 10.
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Then the dog ran before, and coming as if he had brought the news, shewed his joy by his fawning and wagging his tail. -- Tobit 11:9 (Douai-Rheims)
Posts: 7247 | From: Liverpool, UK | Registered: Nov 2004
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Golden Key
Shipmate
# 1468
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Posted
mt--
I did a search: malware "empowr" . Do use the quotes. Lots of hits on spam advisory sites.
You might take a look at this Yahoo Answer page. Look for a post by Anmar, near the end, that starts "Hi Everyone". Anmar says he worked there when it was Fanbox and various later names, and now it's empowr. Gives more details, and info resources.
HTH.
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Blessed Gator, pray for us!
--"Oh bat bladders, do you have to bring common sense into this?" (Dragon, "Jane & the Dragon")
--"Oh, Peace Train, save this country!" (Yusuf/Cat Stevens, "Peace Train")
Posts: 18601 | From: Chilling out in an undisclosed, sincere pumpkin patch. | Registered: Oct 2001
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
from a question asked in Styx about trouble with SOF login.
quote:
Originally posted by Welease Woderwick:
I also have no idea how to clear Android cookies
Assuming you are using Chrome.*
After opening the browser, click on the three vertical dots on the top right.
Then click settings.
Down below, under the Advanced, are the two relevant links. Privacy and Site Settings.
PrivacyClick on this.
Then click on Clear browsing data at the very bottom.
Check the boxes of the things you wish to clear and the press Clear Data
After this, you will want to make sure that your browser is accepting cookies, so then back out to Settings and click on
Site settings.
You will see Cookies, click on that.
Make sure the setting is set to allow cookies.
*There will be similar with other browsers (or different versions of Chrome than the one I am using), but the paths and labels might be slightly different.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Ricardus:
Not sure I should admit his here but ...
Chrome has stopped displaying ads. I've not got an adblocker and all the results on Google seems to assume I want to block ads, not display them.
Any ideas? I've got Avira Browser Safety (the free version) and I'm on Windows 10.
Go to Site settings (See my previous post) and under Cookies, make sure Allow third-party cookies is enabled. If the ads you are missing are pop up ads, further down under Site settings is Pop-ups. You can change the setting to allow them. Not something I would recommend, but...
ETA: Not familiar with Avira, but go into its settings and poke around for cookie settings.
[ 13. September 2016, 15:57: Message edited by: lilBuddha ]
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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Ricardus
Shipmate
# 8757
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Posted
Thanks.
Avira is the culprit. The free version doesn't seem to have settings more detailed than 'Can we spam you?', but disabling it completely restores the ads.
It's just possible this free stuff might not be worth the money ...
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Then the dog ran before, and coming as if he had brought the news, shewed his joy by his fawning and wagging his tail. -- Tobit 11:9 (Douai-Rheims)
Posts: 7247 | From: Liverpool, UK | Registered: Nov 2004
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Golden Key
Shipmate
# 1468
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Posted
Ricardus--
Re free software:
I don't know if this will help you, but...
I usually use some free software for various computer tasks. Over the last couple of months, I've used a lot more, because my computer had serious, mysterious problems.
Overall, many of the free utilities helped a lot. And yes, the ones that have both free and pro/paid versions sometimes have very few working parts in the free version. Some are good at letting you know that up front--they put a sign by the non-working bits. CCleaner and its siblings from Piriform are good about that.
But some free versions, like System Mechanics, just take you to an upgrade offer when you click on something that doesn't work. Worse still, some (like Tweak Bit) don't have anything but analysis working in the free version. Frustrating, when you download the free version in good faith, and can't afford the paid version!
![[Roll Eyes]](rolleyes.gif)
Anyway, through trial and error, I found that it's a good idea to check online, before downloading, for user reviews and whether anyone classifies it as malware. If you can, set a system restore point before downloading, so you can go back to a good configuration if the new software causes problems.
The main place I get free software is at Download.CNET.com. CNET is basically a tech magazine. They review software, and so have downloads--lots of them. Most have both CNET and user reviews, and lots are free. And CNET has things for Android.
Users still have to sort through and pick according to their needs. And some of the free software is fairly low-functioning. But I find that if I filter my search for 3-star and up reviews only, from both CNET and users, I get a pretty good selection.
YMMV, of course. Techies, please don't laugh too hard about my non-techie stumbling around! My computer, which I really, really depend on, is working much better. (Still have problems with a crazy screen, when booting after several hours of non-use, and with over-heating. But the crazy screen now requires fewer reboots to straighten out. And, with the help of Speed-Fan's temperature logging, I can tell when the computer is too hot, and I've adjusted the computer's power settings for somewhat lower performance, so it doesn't get as hot.)
Sorry if I rambled. Good luck with your Android, and with finding better software to replace the troublesome one.
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Blessed Gator, pray for us!
--"Oh bat bladders, do you have to bring common sense into this?" (Dragon, "Jane & the Dragon")
--"Oh, Peace Train, save this country!" (Yusuf/Cat Stevens, "Peace Train")
Posts: 18601 | From: Chilling out in an undisclosed, sincere pumpkin patch. | Registered: Oct 2001
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blackbeard
Ship's Pirate
# 10848
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Posted
I have a silent computer (Windows 10).
It emits no sound signal, even for music on YouTube. Fiddling with volume controls gives no joy.
No idea why this happened, suddenly, a day or two ago.
Is there a simple explanation, cure even? or is it a hardware problem?
regards, Blackbeard
Posts: 823 | From: Hampshire, UK | Registered: Dec 2005
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M.
Ship's Spare Part
# 3291
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Posted
I am having difficulties with my I-pad - difficulties typing this, actually.
First, I prefer to use a keyboard but for some reason it has stopped speaking to the i-pad. I discovered this morning that Bluetooth was turned off (why? Not on purpose, it wasn't) have turned it on and tried to connect but they won't talk to each other. The keyboard is a new one, about a six weeks old.
Secondly, while the keyboard isn't working, I have to use the digital keyboard. For some reason this has taken to positioning itself in the middle of the screen, not the bottom. OK when I can move the screen I'm typing on, pretty useless when I can't.
Help?!
M.
Posts: 2303 | From: Lurking in Surrey | Registered: Sep 2002
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Curiosity killed ...
Ship's Mug
# 11770
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Posted
There have been a series of Windows updates over the last few days. Sound not working following the updates seem to be an issue from checking - see here for the Windows site instructions
That one didn't affect me, but I lost the CD/DVD drive on my work laptop a while back. I know the solution is find and download the right drivers, but I don't use it, so it's not on the urgent to do list.
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Mugs - Keep the Ship afloat
Posts: 13794 | From: outiside the outer ring road | Registered: Aug 2006
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BroJames
Shipmate
# 9636
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by M.:
I am having difficulties with my I-pad - difficulties typing this, actually.
First, I prefer to use a keyboard but for some reason it has stopped speaking to the i-pad. I discovered this morning that Bluetooth was turned off (why? Not on purpose, it wasn't) have turned it on and tried to connect but they won't talk to each other. The keyboard is a new one, about a six weeks old.
Secondly, while the keyboard isn't working, I have to use the digital keyboard. For some reason this has taken to positioning itself in the middle of the screen, not the bottom. OK when I can move the screen I'm typing on, pretty useless when I can't.
Help?!
M.
If the iPad has 'forgotten' the bluetooth keyboard, you may need to set it up from scratch. If it's still showing as a connected device, but is not working, you may need to delete it from your list of bluetooth devices first, and then set it up from scratch.
And, is this any good for the onscreen keyboard?
Posts: 3374 | From: UK | Registered: Jun 2005
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M.
Ship's Spare Part
# 3291
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Posted
Thanks for the help, BroJames.
M.
Posts: 2303 | From: Lurking in Surrey | Registered: Sep 2002
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Golden Key
Shipmate
# 1468
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Posted
Don't know where's the right place to put this; but we've discussed malware and security here, so...
"The Feds Will Soon Be Able to Legally Hack Almost Anyone" (Wired). The main concern in that article is unintended consequences, such as an incident where a legit anti-virus scan shut down a device during heart surgery.
But they could use it on individual's computers, too.
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Blessed Gator, pray for us!
--"Oh bat bladders, do you have to bring common sense into this?" (Dragon, "Jane & the Dragon")
--"Oh, Peace Train, save this country!" (Yusuf/Cat Stevens, "Peace Train")
Posts: 18601 | From: Chilling out in an undisclosed, sincere pumpkin patch. | Registered: Oct 2001
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Bene Gesserit
Shipmate
# 14718
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Posted
Speaking of antivirus scans, my OH did a full scan on our PC today and it took over 8 hrs this time - it used to take less than 6... How long does it take Others?
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Sancta Maria, Mater Dei, ora pro nobis peccatoribus
Posts: 405 | From: Flatlands of the East | Registered: Apr 2009
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Bene Gesserit:
Speaking of antivirus scans, my OH did a full scan on our PC today and it took over 8 hrs this time - it used to take less than 6... How long does it take Others?
OMG! Not sure I've ever had one take even an hour and I have a massive number of files.
How old is your computer?
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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Bene Gesserit
Shipmate
# 14718
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Posted
It's fairly new, uses Win10 (upgraded from 7), and this and any previous computer we've had has always taken hours in the plural for a full scan! Quick scans take 10-mins ish. We do have lots of photos etc...
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Sancta Maria, Mater Dei, ora pro nobis peccatoribus
Posts: 405 | From: Flatlands of the East | Registered: Apr 2009
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Chorister
Completely Frocked
# 473
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Posted
A very basic query probably, but I'm still trying to get my head around what is acceptable or not (quite a minefield for those of us who have come very late to computers and the internet): When is it acceptable to download pictures onto one's own machine? So far, I have assumed that anything publicly available (eg. with a world symbol, open website, unrestricted twitter or flickr account, google images) is OK, and the onus is on the poster of the images to limit them if they don't want public sharing. Am I correct in this assumption? And what about pictures that have 'PhotoStock' or something written across them?
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Retired, sitting back and watching others for a change.
Posts: 34626 | From: Cream Tealand | Registered: Jun 2001
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Bene Gesserit:
It's fairly new, uses Win10 (upgraded from 7), and this and any previous computer we've had has always taken hours in the plural for a full scan! Quick scans take 10-mins ish. We do have lots of photos etc...
I've ~1.75 terabytes of storage on my laptop and that is ~80% full. I've not done a defrag in months and still it does not take more than an hour to do a complete scan. How much memory do you have? MS says a min of 1 GB, but minimum specs rarely result in a happy computer.
Check your system usage with the Task Manager. Make certain when you have all programs closed, the usage is minimal. If it is high, there are things running that should not be and this will affect performance.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Chorister:
A very basic query probably, but I'm still trying to get my head around what is acceptable or not (quite a minefield for those of us who have come very late to computers and the internet): When is it acceptable to download pictures onto one's own machine? So far, I have assumed that anything publicly available (eg. with a world symbol, open website, unrestricted twitter or flickr account, google images) is OK, and the onus is on the poster of the images to limit them if they don't want public sharing. Am I correct in this assumption? And what about pictures that have 'PhotoStock' or something written across them?
I'm not certain what a 'world symbol' is, but all your assumptions are wrong.
It is the user's responsibility to determine whether or not an image is legal to use. The creator has a copyright the moment an image is created, regardless of registration. They may choose to waive some or all of those rights, but merely posting them online does not constitute such. Stock photography companies will have images to show what you are buying. The watermark emblazoned across is to make unauthorized use more difficult, it does not constitute a right of use.
Here is more complete information as well as sources of free images.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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Chorister
Completely Frocked
# 473
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Posted
Thanks for that information, lilBuddha. By world symbol, I meant the icon that comes up showing you that the picture is for public sharing (Facebook uses this, not sure if anyone else does).
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Retired, sitting back and watching others for a change.
Posts: 34626 | From: Cream Tealand | Registered: Jun 2001
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Penny S
Shipmate
# 14768
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Posted
A friend has had an email turn up, ostensibly from this address "no.reply@aatcportal.apple.com" claiming to be an invoice for a purchase of music for an iPhone, which he does not possess. It has a link for cancelling the purchase but this requires a secure login from Outlook. I can't find any information on an Apple site, or any way to tell them to cancel this non-purchase, so I am assuming it to be some sort of phishing.
Anyone know anything about this sort of thing? My friend does not want to be pursued by the courts for non-payment of non-purchases.
Posts: 5833 | Registered: May 2009
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Landlubber
Shipmate
# 11055
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Posted
Penny S I cannot add links from this ipad, but if you search for 'phishing email Apple invoice' you'll find links to Apple pages discussing scam invoices and telling you how to recognise genuine ones and also how to report phishing emails. There are also pages explaining how to log into your Apple account safely to check (as you say, not through a link in a suspicious email). PM me if you need actual links and I'll get the laptop out.
[ 20. September 2016, 13:21: Message edited by: Landlubber ]
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They that go down to the sea in ships … reel to and fro, and stagger like a drunken man
Posts: 383 | From: On dry land | Registered: Feb 2006
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Penny S
Shipmate
# 14768
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Posted
Thanks. I found, after posting here, by searching 'fake IPhone invoice', an Apple users discussion site and an address for reporting phishing, which I have done. We can't log into an account as we don't have an account! I knew it was wrong, after a think, but I was wondering if someone was using my friend's email address to download stuff and attempt to pass the cost on to someone else. There was a link, for cancelling the purchase, but it looked fishy and wanted the password, which it did not get. There will be a new password soon.
It managed, unlike the usual, to have proper grammar, and to have an source address which looked more convincing than the sort claiming to be from Microsoft which shows jbloggs@phoney.org when you float the cursor over it.
I think we have headed it off at the pass. But I will file your answer for future reference. It would be interesting to know how an email account which is only used for communicating with a very few people got out to the criminals.
Thanks.
Posts: 5833 | Registered: May 2009
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Penny S
Shipmate
# 14768
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Posted
Forgot to mention. Part of the indication that it was wrong was that phrases which should have been links, were not, such as 'Apple ID Summary', 'Privacy Policy', 'Terms of Sale', and 'Learn more about your right of withdrawal'.
Posts: 5833 | Registered: May 2009
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The5thMary
Shipmate
# 12953
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Posted
Hi, all! I just set up my new Epson Perfection scanner (V39) and did lots and lots of scanning of my paintings and drawings. This particular scanner comes with ArcSoft's "Scan & Stitch" software that helps one to scan over-sized items. I haven't really had much trouble scanning my artwork in to the software but when it's time for the software to "stitch" all the scans of one drawing/painting, there's a weird white space at one top side and one bottom side of my images. I'm doing what the software said and overlapping the scans to get everything in that is supposed to be in there but the artwork is still coming out weird. Epson's website was of no help at all. Please, my Shippies, does anyone know what might be wrong? This post is probably as clear as mud, so I will understand if no help comes from y'all. ![[Waterworks]](graemlins/bawling.gif)
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God gave me my face but She let me pick my nose.
Posts: 3451 | From: Tacoma, WA USA | Registered: Aug 2007
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Alisdair
Shipmate
# 15837
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Posted
@The5thMary - this is just a shot in the dark, but you could try opening the problem scan files in bitmap editing software, e.g. Photoshop, Paint, The GIMP, etc. to see what is going on. If there is nothing obvious, i.e. they display just fine, without the white top/bottom then the issue is probably with the stitching software. If the images do have unwanted 'extras' you could try simply cropping the images down to the actual image and then going back to the stitching software with your revised image files and trying your luck (you will probably have to 'Export' the edited file into the image format you are working with as most bitmap software works on its own file format when editing - in case you don't know).
If the issue is with the stitching software, unless you can come up with a solution from yourself, a shipmate, or some other online source, etc. then you may need to try some other stitching software.
Software bundled with hardware is often fairly basic, or elderly, so there may be unwanted limits to what it will deign to cope with.
All the best.
Posts: 334 | From: Washed up in England | Registered: Aug 2010
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Pearl B4 Swine
Ship's Oyster-Shucker
# 11451
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Posted
Styx says it doesn't want to be bothered with things like this, so I'll throw it out to all of you:
I am using Firefox less and less these days, and using Chrome instead. I cannot login to the ship when using Chrome, even tho my name & a "******" password appears. I'm not a different person trying to log on. All 'it' tells me is that "You are not logged in".
Must I invent a new persona? That doesn't seem right. Pearl is Pearl. I can't make any headway with this problem. I'd be happy to change my password, but wonder if I can use it whether in Chrome or Firefox.
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Oinkster
"I do a good job and I know how to do this stuff" D. Trump (speaking of the POTUS job)
Posts: 3622 | From: The Keystone State | Registered: May 2006
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
The password is not tied to the browser. The browser merely sends it on to the Ship, which then decides whether it likes you on that particular day.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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Leorning Cniht
Shipmate
# 17564
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by lilBuddha:
The password is not tied to the browser. The browser merely sends it on to the Ship, which then decides whether it likes you on that particular day.
But your browser may well store your password, and if you use multiple browsers, you might have an old password stored in one of them.
Posts: 5026 | From: USA | Registered: Feb 2013
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lilBuddha
Shipmate
# 14333
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Leorning Cniht:
quote:
Originally posted by lilBuddha:
The password is not tied to the browser. The browser merely sends it on to the Ship, which then decides whether it likes you on that particular day.
But your browser may well store your password, and if you use multiple browsers, you might have an old password stored in one of them.
True. I always forget that because I do not like to allow browsers to do this.
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I put on my rockin' shoes in the morning
Hallellou, hallellou
Posts: 17627 | From: the round earth's imagined corners | Registered: Dec 2008
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BroJames
Shipmate
# 9636
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Posted
Our BT HomeHub 5 router is in one corner of our house, because it has to be within its cable's length distance of the master socket where the telephone service comes into the house. We also have a BT YouView (IPTV) box in another room which is connected to the HomeHub via Ethernet and a Powerline adapter.
Unfortunately, because of the location of our router there are parts of the house where the signal is sometimes very unreliable, or at times completely absent.
There is no straightforward way of increasing the power/range of the BT router AFAICT without breaking open the box.
ISTM that an option would be to use one of the older routers we have lying around to act as a separate wireless access point. It could be connected to the Powerline adapter where the YouView box is and thus linked to the router. The YouView box could then be connected to that second router with an Ethernet cable.
Is it possible to do this in such a way that the second router gives priority to passing through the TV data, and so that the TV data isn't degraded to any noticeable extent (I presume this would to some extent be at the expense of the second router's wifi traffic.)
Any thoughts, suggestions, pointers would be gratefully received. (Budget is basically £0!)
Posts: 3374 | From: UK | Registered: Jun 2005
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Snags
Utterly socially unrealistic
# 15351
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Posted
What is or isn't possible with a secondary router really depends on what router it is, and therefore what facilities it offers.
Some will let you disable the routing function, and let you use them as APs or even range extenders. Most probably won't, and (sweeping and not intentionally offensive generalisation) if you're the kind of person who has stuck with the BT supplied HomeHub without replacing it, you're probably not going to have a suitably high quality router lying around to have funky functionality.
Your best bet involves a budget slightly larger than stated ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
The hypothetically cheapest option is probably to get a basic Wireless Access Point (not a router), and stick it on the end of a Powerline link, and thus provide local wifi to the 'dead' area.
In my experience that can be a bit flakey, depending on the quality of the Powerline link.
Another option is a WiFi range extender, but the domestic level ones are all pretty horrible, and also halve your available bandwidth at each hop, so if you're trying to make it available to a number of devices they're a poor choice. Unless you spend enterprise sums of cash to get hyper-clever ones.
A compromise solution that might actually end up being cheapest in the long run could be to use a couple of OpenMesh device, one as a wireless gateway, the other as a child node (kind of a range extender). They're 'budget enterprise' and have a very good reputation, when used appropriately. Unfortunately that would be very much over budget, even so ![[Frown]](frown.gif)
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Vain witterings :-: Vain pretentions :-: The Dog's Blog(locks)
Posts: 1399 | From: just north of That London | Registered: Dec 2009
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Penny S
Shipmate
# 14768
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Posted
When I was using BT, the TV data went through a couple of gadgets that directed it through the power cables.
Posts: 5833 | Registered: May 2009
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BroJames
Shipmate
# 9636
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Penny S:
When I was using BT, the TV data went through a couple of gadgets that directed it through the power cables.
Yes that's what I have too: the Powerline adapters. What I'm trying to work out is whether I can hook up a router to the further adapter to extend my wireless range without degrading the TV signal.
Posts: 3374 | From: UK | Registered: Jun 2005
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Sipech
Shipmate
# 16870
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A question about Word. Could do Powerpoint if that works easier.
What I want to do is print a pair of images on double sided paper and make sure that the opposite sides are lined up.
They are both quite small (about credit card sized) so don't take up the whole page. I only have A4 & A3 paper, so the plan is to print on A4 and then cut out the item with scissors.
What I'd really like to avoid is printing out both images and having to glue them back to back.
How do I go about that?
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I try to be self-deprecating; I'm just not very good at it.
Twitter: http://twitter.com/TheAlethiophile
Posts: 3791 | From: On the corporate ladder | Registered: Jan 2012
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Wesley J
Silly Shipmate
# 6075
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You choose 2 A4 pages, with the images carefully lined up (identical positioning and size), and then print the document double-sided?
Not sure if that answers your question. In any case you'd need a printer that does double-sided printing.
Please ask for more specs, if you need them.
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Be it as it may: Wesley J will stay. --- Euthanasia, that sounds good. An alpine neutral neighbourhood. Then back to Britain, all dressed in wood. Things were gonna get worse. (John Cooper Clarke)
Posts: 7354 | From: The Isles of Silly | Registered: May 2004
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Sipech
Shipmate
# 16870
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Wesley J:
You choose 2 A4 pages, with the images carefully lined up (identical positioning and size), and then print the document double-sided?
Not sure if that answers your question.
It's a re-statment of my problem. How do you line them up to that they have identical sizing and positioning?
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I try to be self-deprecating; I'm just not very good at it.
Twitter: http://twitter.com/TheAlethiophile
Posts: 3791 | From: On the corporate ladder | Registered: Jan 2012
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Lamb Chopped
Ship's kebab
# 5528
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Posted
Okay, if I understand you correctly, you want to print out a single sheet of paper that has a picture on each side, both of those images to be the same size and occupying precisely the same "patch" of paper (such that you could cut out one and when you flipped the cut-out piece over, you'd have the other image on it, also perfectly cut out). Is that correct?
In that case, you need to choose your paper size first--it really doesn't matter what you choose--and your orientation (landscape or portrait). Also check your margins (left, right, top, bottom) and make sure they are all equal, to avoid having to do lots of math. If there is a gutter, get rid of it. The goal is to end up with an absolutely symmetrical page set-up, so when you do any flipping from front to back, you haven't got to swear at it because you forgot some sort of assymetrical offset that screws everything up.
Then go get your two images. Place one on the first page and fine-tune it however you want (location, size, whatever). Right click the image and use the popup menu (particularly the size and position options) to do the fine-tuning. DO NOT USE THE SPACE BAR OR RETURN! That will only lead to heartbreak. If you are in fact planning to print and cut your final version, I suggest you center the image both vertically and horizontally on the page, again, to avoid doing nasty calculations.
Now hit Control/Enter to create a hard page (end this page and move to the next). Place your second image just as you did the first. Be careful not to accidentally add random hard returns before it, which will move it down the page more than you want and possibly screw up your positioning. Again, set the thing to vertical and horizontal centering on the page unless you want to do math.
Right-click on both images one at a time. Note the measurements you see in the "size" box. You want both images to have the same measurements. Adjust one or the other accordingly. Type in your chosen measurements into the box--don't try to resize using drag and drop, or it won't be precise enough and you'll end up having to drown your sorrows in something.
Save the bloody file. Then do a test print to make sure it worked as you liked.
* * * *
IF you chose NOT to center the images, but instead you wanted to do something outre like putting them in the upper left quadrant of the page or something, you're going to have to do math. That's because the left margin of the first side of the page is going to morph into the right side of the other side of the page. So if your first image is 3 inches from the left edge of the page, your second image is going to have to be 3 inches from the right side of the page in order to have them end up in the same patch of paper real estate, back-to-back. This will be a pain in the ass to calculate, as you have to cope with things like how big the margins are, etc. Make your sad life slighly happier by turning on the rulers feature which is found under View/rulers.
Good luck.
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Er, this is what I've been up to (book).
Oh, that you would rend the heavens and come down!
Posts: 20059 | From: off in left field somewhere | Registered: Feb 2004
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Leorning Cniht
Shipmate
# 17564
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Sipech:
It's a re-statment of my problem. How do you line them up to that they have identical sizing and positioning?
Both Word and Powerpoint are poor choices for this, although you can make it work (for which see Lamb Chopped's detailed post).
I will add that you might need to fine-tune this - you might find that there are small offsets in what your printer thinks its margins are, which means that images which you calculate to be back-to-back end up with a small offset.
So set up your file, print a test copy, then hold the paper up to the light and check the alignment. If you find that you're not quite aligned right, measure (with a ruler) the offset you need to apply to one of the images, and then go and shift the position of that image by whatever distance.
Again, adjust the position by typing numbers into dialog boxes - don't even think about clicking and dragging anything.
Posts: 5026 | From: USA | Registered: Feb 2013
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Lamb Chopped
Ship's kebab
# 5528
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Posted
I have a sneaking suspicion you are trying to copy a health card or ID card, and you want to be able to slide it into your wallet (the copy, I mean). If that's the case, I'll tell you my personal preference--head down to your local copy/print shop, tell the counter person what you want, and let it become THEIR problem.
It's just not worth the hassle sometimes.
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Er, this is what I've been up to (book).
Oh, that you would rend the heavens and come down!
Posts: 20059 | From: off in left field somewhere | Registered: Feb 2004
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The5thMary
Shipmate
# 12953
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Posted
Thanks for the help. I think the problem is that it's nearly impossible, without being a robot, to line up my paintings exactly the same for both sides. I'm going to call the printer and find out if they can "fill in" the slim parts that won't line up correctly. Either that, or fool around with the way the scan and stitch software crops the scan. I can't be the only one who has had this problem. The only other thing I can think of is to only create paintings that fit on the scanner!
Yeah, no. ![[Killing me]](graemlins/killingme.gif)
I do believe this is going to take some time. I'll try not to scream and/or grind my teeth with frustration.
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God gave me my face but She let me pick my nose.
Posts: 3451 | From: Tacoma, WA USA | Registered: Aug 2007
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Alisdair
Shipmate
# 15837
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Posted
@The5thMary - You could always see what a commercial outfit would charge to scan your paintings on a large format scanner - probably not a lot, and/or see if you can source one for hire, for the times you need it.
Posts: 334 | From: Washed up in England | Registered: Aug 2010
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Ariel
Shipmate
# 58
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Posted
I've discovered a little file called AntiDust.exe in my programs folder. Does anyone know what this is or does? Am I safe to delete it? The internet seems split on whether it's malware or not.
Posts: 25445 | Registered: May 2001
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Snags
Utterly socially unrealistic
# 15351
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Posted
quote:
Originally posted by BroJames:
quote:
Originally posted by Penny S:
When I was using BT, the TV data went through a couple of gadgets that directed it through the power cables.
Yes that's what I have too: the Powerline adapters. What I'm trying to work out is whether I can hook up a router to the further adapter to extend my wireless range without degrading the TV signal.
As per above, you can with a Wireless Access Point (WAP), you will probably have fun and games if you try to do it with a router, for various reasons.
If you want to PM me with the model numbers of the kit you have available to play with, I'll look up specs etc. and give you some pointers (or warnings!).
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Vain witterings :-: Vain pretentions :-: The Dog's Blog(locks)
Posts: 1399 | From: just north of That London | Registered: Dec 2009
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