Thread: Visiting Edinburgh Board: Oblivion / Ship of Fools.


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Posted by Thurible (# 3206) on :
 
Inspired by the Rome thread, I wonder if Edinburgh afficianados would share their hints, tips, advice, etc, about visiting the Scottish capital for a long weekend in June/July. Mrs Thurible has requested a long weekend away for her birthday. We know there's a castle; we know there's the Parliament. What else is there?

Thurible
 

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Posted by kingsfold (# 1726) on :
 
Glasgow, only an hour away...

Holyrood House, garden and Abbey ruins, various Georgian Houses etc to visit if you're into that sort of thing, art gallery(ies?, ditto), a walk up Arthur's Seat, bus down to Leith and then the Royal Yacht Britannia, shipmates if you fancy a shipmeet.... what else could you want/need?
 

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Posted by PeteC (# 10422) on :
 
And wonderful restaurants without number. The Portrait Gallery, National Museum of Scotland... Pick your poison and enjoy. Embra's got it all.
 

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Posted by Baptist Trainfan (# 15128) on :
 
Including very cold winds.
 

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Posted by North East Quine (# 13049) on :
 
Simply walking the Royal Mile (Parliament to Castle) is wonderful. You pass all manner of interesting buildings and opportunities to eat / drink.
 

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Posted by Firenze (# 619) on :
 
Never too early to sort your accommodation. June/July is not quite main Festival/Fringe (when the population doubles) but it is getting there (see below). Also, where you stay can impact on how easy it is to get to enjoyable stuff, have good eateries in easy reach etc. Advice available, btw.

You might want to check out the cultural stuff.
 

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Posted by Cottontail (# 12234) on :
 
Some of my favourite places in Edinburgh ... and they are all free!

The Manfield Traquair Centre, sometimes called 'Scotland's Sistine Chapel'. It is a former Catholic Apostolic Church, and the walls are covered in murals by Phoebe Anna Traquair, one of the foremost artists of the Arts and Crafts movement. The centre is only open on the second Sunday of each month, but you can arrange for a private tour at other times, probably for a donation. Seriously worth it.

The Scottish Writers' Museum, in Lady Stair's house, tucked into a close just off the Lawnmarket. It has excellent exhibitions on Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson - but I find that the real fascination is the house itself, which is a well preserved example of how the wealthy lived before the New Town was built.

The Dome bar and restaurant on George Street. It used to be a bank, and the interior is stunning. Have a meal there, or afternoon tea, or just a drink. Dress up!

St Giles Cathedral is free. Chat to the very informative guides, and you might get a tour from them. Other churches worth visiting are Greyfriars Tolbooth & Highland Church - very historic, a fascinating graveyard, and home of Greyfriars' Bobby; and the Canongate Church near Holyrood Palace. This is the Queen's church when she is in residence. Also pop into the St Albert the Great Catholic Chaplaincy at the University iin George Square - it is a beautiful and sympathetic modern building.

Escape the crowds by wandering down to Dean Village - possibly the most picturesque corner of Edinburgh. Then walk along the Water of Leith to elegant, upmarket Stockbridge, with its many restaurants and beautiful Georgian streets and famous 'colonies'. From there it is a short walk to the Botanic Gardens, which is a lovely place for a wander and a picnic.

If you are feeling fit, climb Arthur's Seat for the amazing views. More accessible is Calton Hill, which has equally good views and plenty to explore when you're up there.

It's a great city. I love it to pieces.
 

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Posted by Thurible (# 3206) on :
 
Thank you. This is exactly the sort of thing. We must firm up a date so that I can book the accommodation.

Any recommendations for cheap but not skanky accommodation? A basic hotel is probably the sort of thing we'll be able to stretch to.

Thurible
 

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Posted by Cottontail (# 12234) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Thurible:
Thank you. This is exactly the sort of thing. We must firm up a date so that I can book the accommodation.

Any recommendations for cheap but not skanky accommodation? A basic hotel is probably the sort of thing we'll be able to stretch to.

Thurible

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quote:

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Originally posted by kingsfold:
And if you're looking for a Church, Old St Pauls might work for you. Or St Michael & all Angels Tollcross, (which I think I've heard referred to as Smoky Mike's...)

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Spiky Mike's!
 

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Posted by kingsfold (# 1726) on :
 
I knew it was something like that - thanks Cottontail.
 

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Posted by Chesterbelloc (# 3128) on :
 
Can definitely recommend a walk along the Water of Leith, either starting or finishing at the Dean village - rus in urbs, innit. My favourite city centre pubs (principal criterion: excellent beer) are Sandy Bell's (regulars gather almost every evening to jam some folk on fiddles, etc.), the Bow Bar, the Blue Blazer - all within a 10 minute stagger of one another. Good beer and cheap and filling food (as well as art films) are also to be had in the cafe of the Filmhouse.

Personal loyalty as well as professional judgement lead me to suggest a visit to Gladstone's Land and (especially) Newhailes - both amazing and very differently conserved historic dwellings.

Sorry to have been too lazy to link to any these things. Let me know if you have any difficulty in finding them.

If you don't absolutley love Edinburgh, I'll cheerfully stand you both a pint before you leave - and, heck, even if you do! More recommendations to follow as they occur to me...
 

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Posted by North East Quine (# 13049) on :
 
My parents stayed in the Rose Street Travelodge last month and were happy with it, though there was no view from the window. It's very central, and Rose Street is pleasant.

One of my favourite Edinburgh treats is a pot of tea and a piece of shortbread in Jenner's tea room, with a glorious view of the Scott monument.

There's the pandas at the zoo, but the zoo is really a "whole day" thing, so I don't recommend that, if you've only got a weekend.
 

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Posted by North East Quine (# 13049) on :
 
Are you arriving by train, or driving? Because if you're driving, the Edinburgh shipmates will probably need to give you some hints and tips.

Personally, I always go by train; Waverley is central, and there's a huge amount of Edinburgh fitted into quite a small area; it's very strollable.

[ 03. October 2013, 13:43: Message edited by: North East Quine ]
 

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Posted by hanginginthere (# 17541) on :
 
If you like going for a walk, the Meadows is (are?) flat, Arthur's Seat is not, but worth it for the views from the top.
 

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Posted by hanginginthere (# 17541) on :
 
Sorry, meant to mention the Botanic Gardens as well.
 

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Posted by Ferijen (# 4719) on :
 
We did a walk around under the old underground vaults and various other points in the Royal Mile. It was less cheesey than I expected and I'd definitely recommend it.
 

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Posted by Firenze (# 619) on :
 
Is this Novotel in your price range?

It's very well situated for access to the Old Town, Museum of Scotland, Meadows, Grassmarket, all the pubs mentioned above (+ The Doctors), lots of places to eat (and it being the university quarter, many not too expensive), Royal Mile, Lyceum Theatre, Usher Hall, Traverse and bus routes to other parts of town.

I would avoid hotels at the west end, Haymarket or Fountainbridge. Too much office build/featureless conference and leisure centres/ urban motorway. Go central or south side.
 

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Posted by piglet (# 11803) on :
 
Because I have close family in Edinburgh, we very rarely end up doing the Tourist Bit, which is probably a shame, as there's so much to see. Having said that, we usually eat out somewhere with the mob when we're there (last time was at the Olive Branch, which was lovely.

As Pete said, you're absolutely spoilt for choice when it comes to eateries.

Hope you have a great time - I think we need an "envy" button!
 

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Posted by Metapelagius (# 9453) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Chesterbelloc:
Can definitely recommend a walk along the Water of Leith, either starting or finishing at the Dean village - rus in urbs, innit. My favourite city centre pubs (principal criterion: excellent beer) are Sandy Bell's (regulars gather almost every evening to jam some folk on fiddles, etc.), the Bow Bar, the Blue Blazer - all within a 10 minute stagger of one another. Good beer and cheap and filling food (as well as art films) are also to be had in the cafe of the Filmhouse.

Personal loyalty as well as professional judgement lead me to suggest a visit to Gladstone's Land and (especially) Newhailes - both amazing and very differently conserved historic dwellings.

Sorry to have been too lazy to link to any these things. Let me know if you have any difficulty in finding them.

If you don't absolutley love Edinburgh, I'll cheerfully stand you both a pint before you leave - and, heck, even if you do! More recommendations to follow as they occur to me...

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quote:

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Originally posted by Metapelagius:
A couple of years ago we stayed at the Travelodge in Dean Village - adequate if not exciting, yet that is what Travelodges are like - but it was next to the Water of Leith, and I can certainly endorse CB's recommendation of a walk along it.

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Ages since I stayed there (before I came to live in Edinburgh) but I can second this recommendation as being affordable, comfortable and excellently situated (right on the Water of Leith) - although it's now under new owners so best check their rates. It's a minute's walk from the two modern art galleries, tucked in a quiet bit of the west end. No direct buses into the more central bit of the old and new towns, but 15 mins stroll from both so where's the need?

[ETA: also only 5 mins from the Piskie Cathedral - and 2 mins from the city's only (non-SSPX) Trid Mass (11.30 Missa Cantata at St. Andrew's, Ravelston) ]

[ 03. October 2013, 22:33: Message edited by: Chesterbelloc ]
 

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Posted by PeteC (# 10422) on :
 
Forget which Travelodge I stayed in (Firenze can tell you), but I stay in Travelodges when possible. Very reasonable prices.
 

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Posted by Thurible (# 3206) on :
 
Yes, I was thinking of Travelodges - would St Mary's Street be a good place to base ourselves? What about Learmonth Terrace?

I'm assuming we shouldn't bother considering Musselburgh! In fact, looking more closely, that's at a service station. As we won't be driving, that wouldn't work.

Regarding transport, we were thinking of the train but I'm now wondering about the Megabus sleeper. I know how to treat a girl!

Thurible

[ 04. October 2013, 08:41: Message edited by: Thurible ]
 

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Posted by Firenze (# 619) on :
 
The Travelodge Pete stayed at was the one at Cameron Toll.

It is a couple of miles from the city centre, but on a principal bus route, so easy access. It is in an area of established by prospering Edinburghers in the 19th C - big, stone-built houses with gardens. So pleasant, safe, leafy. Big shopping mall across the road.

St Mary's St goes down off the Royal Mile (the 'down' bit was the counter-indication for Pete) so you are bang in the middle of the huddled tenements and closes of the Old Town. If you are ok with a bit of uphill walking, it is very central esp for Holyrood Palace, St Giles and the Castle. Public transport - one or two buses routes up the Mile or Holyrood Rd.
 

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Posted by Deputy Verger (# 15876) on :
 
A few years ago at that time of year I stayed at the Grassmarket Hotel, which as its name suggests, is right on the Grassmarket Square - fantastic location. Simple, but an amazing Full Scottish breakfast in the pub in the morning. Cheaper than the Novotel, more expensive than a Travelodge, but much more fun. And do organise a Shipmeet in advance! On which note, I shall be there the first three days of November - any takers for a Meet?
 

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Posted by Deputy Verger (# 15876) on :
 
And regarding transport - the East Coast train from the South gives you amazing views as you go through York, Durham and Newcastle. And you can take a day trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow on the train - even just an evening trip as the days are very long up there at that time of year - so do!
 

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Posted by Chorister (# 473) on :
 
Does anyone know how the Edinburgh transport system is coming along? Last time I visited the trams still weren't finished and there also appeared to be a plan to take a new railway down to the south out of Edinburgh.
 

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Posted by daisymay (# 1480) on :
 
I also like visiting Edinburgh, as we have friends and family there. I like walking up the big hill and seeing lots looking own.
 

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Posted by Dafyd (# 5549) on :
 

quote:

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Originally posted by Chorister:
Does anyone know how the Edinburgh transport system is coming along? Last time I visited the trams still weren't finished and there also appeared to be a plan to take a new railway down to the south out of Edinburgh.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Deputy Verger:
And regarding transport - the East Coast train from the South gives you amazing views as you go through York, Durham and Newcastle. And you can take a day trip from Edinburgh to Glasgow on the train - even just an evening trip as the days are very long up there at that time of year - so do!

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quote:

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Originally posted by kingsfold:
And if you're looking for a Church, Old St Pauls might work for you. Or St Michael & all Angels Tollcross, (which I think I've heard referred to as Smoky Mike's...)

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