Thread: Mightbe Cyclist Board: Oblivion / Ship of Fools.


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Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I have tried cycling to work before - got high end folding bike and it almost killed me. Sold it on. Nowadays I am a commuter anyway so a ride to work is just not possible. But, I live in a very cycle friendly place, and I am thinking about a leisure cycle, it will never see mud - just roads and lanes.

I thought heaven might be a good place to discuss options. I don't have specific budget, I am more interested in the discussing the pros and cons of various choices. I am looking for comfort and easy maintenance, and possibly mildly good looks.

Current thoughts are about whether hub gears and hub brakes are worth having. (I am also unsure about whether hub brakes are the same as disc brakes.)

My other big concern is the saddle, because prior experience tells me that things calling themselves comfort saddles are a snare and a delusion. I have heard Brooks are good, but they look as if it would be like sitting on shaped wood.

(Some happy cyclist told me not to worry about saddle comfort as you just go numb - this strikes me as a ***bad*** solution.)

[ 01. June 2014, 12:09: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Macrina (# 8807) on :
 
So I have one of these:

http://m.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/fitness/expedition/expedition-sport-low-entry

I love it, the saddle is padded and wide (a must for the half of the species with birthing hips) and you sit upright so no strain on your lower back or arms.

Anywhoo sales pitch aside, my advice would be to buy decent quality from a decent shop I.e Evans or reputable specialist bike shop. Quality frames save on hassle. You would probably be better off with a hybrid bike if you're looking for comfort and commuting as road bikes arent easily suited to this.

As for hub gears, you will pay more for these, they are generally bomb proof although never ever jetwash them as it ruins them beyond repair. Their major drawback is lack of range in your gearing and difficulty of repair when they do go wrong. If you have anything more than very flat terrain go with a derailleur gear as you will regret it later if you don't.

I would also ensure you have mudguards front and rear as that will greatly restrict the trendy covered in grime look of both you and your bike.

Last but not least, as someone who has spent much money on lights I strongly advise forking out upfront for the USB rechargeable ones as they are both brighter and cheaper in the long run.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
That is very handsome, and I do definitely want that kind of low step-through.

I am in a flat area, really only a very occasional low hill. Fact is, if anything breaks, I will be getting someone else to fix it - unless it takes five minutes and is idiot proof. We have some good bike shops near me - but I was rather put off by crap customer service when I went exploring. I realise if I buy off the web I shall have to try to measure my inside leg, which will be an adventure in itself.
 
Posted by Cathscats (# 17827) on :
 
As an almost daily cyclist, I would say do not be fooled into thinking that more gears are better. A few gears are a good idea, but you are in a flattish place. I am not and I find that 6 gears is ample and 6 means that there are fewer to go wrong [Smile] . I agree that a slightly old fashioned upright frame is a great thing. Mine also has a wicker basket!
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
As someone who bikes year round, I recommend for flat terrain commuting you won't use nearly all gears. If you plan to have one bike do it all then there are compromises. I have a 9 speed hybrid road bike. Plus 2 others for other conitions. It has disc brakes, but aren't needed in our usually dry summers. In wetter areas, where you expect rain, I would have them. Tire tread pattern makes a difference too. Saddle- a gel filled one and a gas seat post for absorbing road bounce is nice. The mountain bikes with springs and fatter tires will do it but you pay for weight and rolling resistance with effort and energy.

Fenders are a must, what you call mudguards. Handle bar designs your back can tolerate. I sit upright myself.

At least 2 bike locks or if available a bike locker. Carrying a collapsable with you is good. Paniers to carry things in. They have them for folding bikes too.

Light your self well. I use LEDs and have then on helmet and arms in some conditions. The USB ones are okay, but I get problems with rechargeables in cold weather.

Gloves and rain pants (trousers).

About buying. Consider used and do consider online. There is lots of cost variation. Also doing basic maintenance will save headache and money. Chain oiling. Flat tire changing. Squeak fixing. I carry basic tools. I am a member of 2 cycling advocacy groups. It is probably good to at least get emails from them. Finally, if it seems dangerous at some times, get off, walk the bike and act like a pedestrian until it is safe. Never trust drivers or pedestrians to make decisions about your safety.
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
Get yourself a good helmet and always wear it when you cycle. I flipped right over this winter on black ice, 180 degrees over like a pancake and down on my my head, and would surely not be here today if I had not been wearing a helmet.

I commute on a hybrid Trek, nothing fancy. It is about 14 miles round trip, and I do this about twice a week, carefully selecting the most clement of days on offer. In good years I can do this every week of the year, but this year was a hard winter, and I bailed out after the black ice incident until it warmed up some.

Do not be tempted into buying more equipment/gear/toys than you actually use. Add to your wardrobe or stash slowly, as you develop a need for stuff. Otherwise you can spend a LOT of money. I have a rear rack, to which I have used plastic zip ties to attach an ordinary wicker basket. This holds the occasional item of clothing, a folded newspaper, perhaps a sandwich or book.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I am definitely not going to be commuting, just nipping into town really.

I know you can 5 hub gears, maybe eight.

I t will definitely be dealing with wet roads, this is England ! So keen to have good brakes
 
Posted by Gareth (# 2494) on :
 
A few areas have 'social enterprises' promoting cycling for people of all ages and abilities - our local one is brilliant. Being a social enterprise means that while they do make money from the sale, separating you from your cash isn't their main goal - they exist to get you cycling.

If you can find one, they will have a wider range of bikes for you to try.
 
Posted by busyknitter (# 2501) on :
 
I ride my bike nearly everyday, but rarely for long journeys (usually 5 miles max).

One of my bikes (posh, famous brand folder) has a Brookes saddle and it is absolutely lovely. Yes it looks rigid and uncomfortable but in fact it just seems to mould itself around me. My other bike (ancient, steel hybrid) has the saddle that I rode round Europe on nearly thirty years ago and is held together with insulating tape. It is also really comfy.

The most important thing about saddles is to get the correct type for the gender of your pelvis. You shouldn't be getting a numb bum from general daily cycling.

I don't often wear a helmet when I'm cycling around where I live. But I do wear one if I take the bike to London.

Rain doesn't really bother me (good waterproof jacket and trousers very useful), neither does the dark or traffic, but I give up cycling when it gets icy.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
How long do you think it takes to break in a brooks ?
 
Posted by Macrina (# 8807) on :
 
Speaking of measuring inside legs, get your bike fitted to you. Most people cycle with their saddles way too low and all that will do is strain your knees and put you out of position to utilise your muscles effectively.

Your saddle should be level with your hips and you should be just short of fully extending your leg when you're on the downward stroke. For people new to cycling this can feel too high and scary but you soon adapt and it's really the best way to be as you're most able to move quickly and manipulate the bike if you're in the best position on it.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Thanks I was never sure how to work it out.

Various sites have told me that at 5ft 4in (optomistic measurement) I thould be looking at a small frame - which I guess is the 17 in wheels thing.

I know I could ask a bike shop this, but I have previous traumatising experiences after taking halfords advice.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
How long do you think it takes to break in a brooks ?
Not that long—60 miles or so—after which it's like a broken-in pair of hiking boots. Now, I've heard that those first 60 miles are like the first 60 in leather boots (ow…), but after that, it's the most comfortable think you've ever put your kiester on. I have a vintage Avocet saddle (not quite the same thing, but not quite completely different) that had a similar break-in period for its rather stiff and unused leather cover.

Absolutely, by all means, go to the local bike shop. Any other options—No. Just No. A good LBS will not only check your size and fit, will not only spend considerable time tuning your bike before it goes on the floor, but may even pop it in a stationary trainer for a final fitting. Most shops offer at least some form of free maintenance, with some offering it for life. Many shops have shop rides on weekends or evenings, some do concerts or potlucks, and some are active in bike advocacy activities and teach classes on, say, commuting or maintenance; it's all these extra things that come with belonging to a shop that add up after a while. Online? If something's wrong with your bike, good luck. Big box store? When something's wrong with your bike, because they have such a high quota of setups to churn out (sometimes by minimally trained workers), also good luck.

Used? Let the buyer beware. Research EVERYTHING. You can find good deals on vintage bikes out there—I sure have!—but you can also find poorly maintained clunkers and, more to the point, bikes that belong to other people. As someone who almost bought a Bridgestone RB-2 (a really nice steel road/racing bike from the mid-90's) for an absurdly low price, I'm glad that the seller was suspiciously non-responsive and that I caught that some of the parts in the seller's picture of the bike (that he claimed when asked were "all original") didn't match up with the spec list from the Bridgestone catalog. ALWAYS do some sleuthing before buying something used. Ask what was replaced, find out as much about who owned the bike previously, figure out how the current owner came into possession of it, ask what's been replaced, and, if you can, find the catalog for that make, model, and year. Be especially suspicious if the components on the bike are of all different makes and models, and the bike wasn't made that way—some bikes, especially from the late 80's and before, would have parts from several different manufacturers, but, starting in the 90's, would use all one model from one manufacturer. Bike thieves tend to strip components off of bikes, then switch them around to make Frankenbikes, which is easy to spot if you know what to look for and have experience with old bikes, tricky to see if you don't. See if you can bring the bike by your LBS for a lookover before you buy it; they'll know at a glance what kinds of things should be on that bike and what indicates a chop shop job at a glance.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
Measuring legs. Easiest is to go to bike shops and try out frame sizes. Usually they will allow you to stand over top of bikes and some will have an adjustable frame thingy you sit on to size you up.

Helmets. Depends on many factors. Nonaggressive cyclists don't need. Aggressive riders for sure, ie darting in and out and racing about. I have seen the data, some of it seems counterintuitive, that helmets don't decrease overall injury severity. I have been hit twice by cars, once with helmet, once without. Neither time hit head, rather 2 vertebral fractures with one, and 3 ribs with other. Best is accident avoidance by taking necessary time and enjoying the ride, and planning a good route. I actually avoid bike lanes in some places in lieu of quiet streets and low traffic volumes.

A cycling jacket with 3 back pockets is nice for carrying things. I was given one for Xmas this year. Wallet, keys, phone, gloves.

Back to seats. Price and brandname do not predict comfort. You need to sit on them and be focussed on pressure. I do like gel seats.

There is a psychological benefit to regular riding. Some quiet, thoughtful time and mild to moderate physical exertion comforts me. As if the journey is inflated in importance, as well as destination.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
X post with Ariston. The stationary trainer is great for trying out bike configurations and sizes. Thats what I meant.
 
Posted by Ariel (# 58) on :
 
I rented a bike once and after half an hour on it could hardly sit down for a week. I suppose you must get used to it but it certainly put me off.

quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
Helmets. Depends on many factors. Nonaggressive cyclists don't need.
No matter how non-aggressive you may be, you've only got to be unexpectedly whacked by a car door, tripped up by a small dog suddenly darting out, or caught unawares by a pothole or piece of rubbish on the road, to find a cycling helmet useful. Not having one is like saying if you're a careful driver you don't need a seatbelt.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I have an LBS that looks quite good, but when I went in to talk about buying a bike, decided they were just too busy - even If i arranged to come back later that day at their convenience. (Suggested I email in for a workday appointment - which works so well as I have a job which interestingly occurs in working hours on work days.)

Couple of others have shut, we have a couple of dodgy second hand vendors, and a shop that sells giant brand and nothing else.

The one I brought my folder from a couple of years back, that did test rides etc, has closed I think.

I don't think I really want to give the too busy guys my business. I was considering buying one of their pashleys, if they could do a decent deal, but I'd rather buy elsewhere if I did go with one of those.

(My uncertainty with the pashley being just how much I might be paying for the name - even though the features look good and they are nice looking bikes.)

[ 01. June 2014, 18:47: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by busyknitter (# 2501) on :
 
Don't disregard the chain shops out of hand.

I've recently finished a stint of part time working in London and had need to use both Cycle Surgery and Evans a few times, both for buying stuff and urgent maintenance. I got great service from both, they had competent mechanics and the prices were not silly. And they let passers by use the shop pump. The guys at Evans, Fulham Broadway even let me fix my own flat tyre in the shop once, and gave me a hand.

But on the other hand the too-cool-for-school indie bike shop I called into one day was simply uninterested in helping me. He wouldn't even recommend another nearby shop.
 
Posted by Gareth (# 2494) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by busyknitter:
But on the other hand the too-cool-for-school indie bike shop I called into one day was simply uninterested in helping me. He wouldn't even recommend another nearby shop.
That's the bit that tells me I'm dealing with an arsehole.

I freely admit that parking a massive 4x4 on a hardcore cycle shop forecourt is provocative (but not half as much fun as arriving at the local Green Party meeting in it) but then refusing to engage with a customer just because he has a 4x4 is prejudicial. In a reasonable world, the transaction should then proceed on a functional level as an absolute minimum.

That sort of snobbery exists in all sorts of areas. I get the same reaction when I arrive on my Halford's own brand street racer, and when PC geeks see me using Apple products.
 
Posted by Macrina (# 8807) on :
 
Evans are good, if slightly expensive for routine maintenence, Halfords far less so I wouldn't buy from there. I kind of like the idea of getting my bike from people who ride and like bikes and that's not always a given at Halfords.

And I 100% agree with the advice to always wear a helmet especially in the UK. Until we have entirely separate cycleways and/or motorists as a whole learn that cyclists have a place on roads just like them then you will definitely need one.
 
Posted by seasick (# 48) on :
 
I have a fourteen gear hub on my bike which I love - but it's probably not a starter option because of the cost if nothing else. It gives a great range (I'm yet to meet a hill that I don't have a low enough gear for) and the ability to change gears while stationary is brilliant for the significant amount of city/trafficy riding I do in my day to day stuff.
 
Posted by jedijudy (# 333) on :
 
This is a wonderful thread, full of advice that has me thinking about getting my old bike road worthy!

After some back-stage discussion, we think this will be even more helpful in All Saints.

So, make sure to follow the rules of the road as we take a quick ride to that Saintly place! Wheee!

jedijudy
Heaven Host
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by seasick:
I have a fourteen gear hub on my bike which I love - but it's probably not a starter option because of the cost if nothing else. It gives a great range (I'm yet to meet a hill that I don't have a low enough gear for) and the ability to change gears while stationary is brilliant for the significant amount of city/trafficy riding I do in my day to day stuff.
I just googled that, I see what you mean about not a starter option !

Love the idea though.

(I fancied this helmet, but probably should get a bike first [Big Grin] )

[ 01. June 2014, 20:24: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Gareth:
quote:
Originally posted by busyknitter:
But on the other hand the too-cool-for-school indie bike shop I called into one day was simply uninterested in helping me. He wouldn't even recommend another nearby shop.
That's the bit that tells me I'm dealing with an arsehole.
Dangit! My post got erased in the thread move!

There are a lot of "pro shops" out there looking for a certain type of customer—usually athletic, almost always male (the horror stories I've heard about bike shops from women…), often over 50, looks like he really thinks you can't find a good road bike for under $3,000 and wants a really good one, probably has friends who bike and therefore has Joneses to keep up with. Speaking as a possible future member of their target demographic, stay the @#$% away from these places, even if you are one of the few people they'll actually talk to.

If the place asks you to make an appointment, run. That's a serious WTF moment for me; I've walked into shops on a busy afternoon during a long weekend in the summer, obviously more interested in looking than buying, mentioned that I'm a regular at another shop that carried many of the same brands—and therefore likely to buy from them—and still had three people talk to me, let me test ride one of the bikes they'd stashed hanging up on the ceiling, introduced me to the owner, and otherwise made time for me despite having none themselves.

There's a reason why I refer customers to them. A good bike shop will always pay attention to you, even when the staff is running around like a bunch of headless chickens. If you find a good commuter shop, a friendly one that pays attention to you, go ahead and ask them if they know of any other good shops; they'll probably tell you.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
quote:
Originally posted by seasick:
I have a fourteen gear hub on my bike which I love - but it's probably not a starter option because of the cost if nothing else. It gives a great range (I'm yet to meet a hill that I don't have a low enough gear for) and the ability to change gears while stationary is brilliant for the significant amount of city/trafficy riding I do in my day to day stuff.
I just googled that, I see what you mean about not a starter option !

Love the idea though.

(I fancied this helmet, but probably should get a bike first [Big Grin] )
If you really want to have helmetlust, or are just feeling a bit twee(d), there's always Yakkay…
 
Posted by Darllenwr (# 14520) on :
 
I used a combination of bike and train to get to work (and back) for about 5 years. Actual distance on 2 wheels was limited (unless the trains were up the creek, in which case, rather more). The biggest lesson I learned was, unless you are going to ride off-road, fit the narrowest, highest-pressure tyres you can find for your machine. They will dramatically reduce the pedalling effort.

Also, fit puncture-resist tape. It isn't cheap (I recently bought a pack for a friend, two wheels, £20) but it saves you endless grief. I can assure you that finding a flat tyre when you have a five-mile push ahead of you is not funny. In the first few months, until I fitted the tape, I was having a puncture every fortnight. Afterwards, no punctures. Draw your own conclusions.

If you have the nerve (not for a complete beginner) fitting toe clips and straps to the pedals also reduces the effort needed, and doesn't mean having to wear special cycling shoes. May not be compatible if you have folding pedals.

And, yes, I was a thoroughly lazy cyclist. But one who did all my own repairs and maintenance, including replacing spokes and straightening wheels.

[As a footnote, in my university days, I used to build wheels from scratch.]
 
Posted by Patdys (# 9397) on :
 
It sounds like you have made a good start.
First, work out exactly what you want the bike for.
Second, Work out your budget.
Third, you will hurt when you first start out. It takes time to train muscles and your bum.
Fourth, be prepared for 'upgraditis'. It is easy to start making little improvements when you are enjoying yourself.

I currently have 5 bikes, 4 to ride and 1 for parts or to sell. They each have different purposes and weather conditions.

hill climbing long distance roadie- Climb over a km or travel over 100km.
standard roadie (cheaper insurance replacement)- for group rides or shorter distances.
triathlon bike- Cut out saddle and different posture
old too small triathlon bike (want to buy it?)
Hack around commuter.

I commute to work, irrespective of weather* which ranges from 70 to 250 km a week. And cycling is my main vice. (That I am prepared to reveal online).

And the best advice is try before you buy. A good bike shop will allow you to test ride. But key is working out what you want it to do.

* my weather is 0 to 40 degrees, never with snow.
 
Posted by jedijudy (# 333) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ariston:

Dangit! My post got erased in the thread move!
[Frown] I'm sorry! [Hot and Hormonal] Bad timing seems to be another of my super powers.
 
Posted by Curiosity killed ... (# 11770) on :
 
I used to cycle to work every day using a Giant - and liked the bike. It was a compromise road/mountain bike hybrid because:
  1. I live near a lot of off-road trails and don't have the space for four bikes (2 x 2)*;
  2. I was cycling the back lanes to and from work and the potholes on them weren't great. I was very grateful to be riding a hybrid a lot of the time;
  3. I used the off road trails to do other things at the weekend.
Used as I no longer work there and the bikes got stolen along with a number of others - the thieves cut the side wall off the shed.

* Road bike and mountain bike for me and my daughter at the time = 4 bikes in total.
 
Posted by Pyx_e (# 57) on :
 
Now all you need is a 900cc engine and all will be well.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Darllenwr:
I used a combination of bike and train to get to work (and back) for about 5 years. Actual distance on 2 wheels was limited (unless the trains were up the creek, in which case, rather more). The biggest lesson I learned was, unless you are going to ride off-road, fit the narrowest, highest-pressure tyres you can find for your machine. They will dramatically reduce the pedalling effort.
While thin, high-pressure, slick road tires will make you go faster, they'll also lead to a bit more harsh ride…and aren't the best for taking shortcuts through dirt. Not that this always stops me, mind you, just that it probably should.

A good compromise that most people I know who commute do is use 700x35* puncture resistant tires, rather than, say, 700x23 slick road/racing tires that match the color of your bike. There are a few good brands out there, most of which go for about $38 each over here and are an absolute pain in the ass to change…which is okay, since you're probably not going to be changing them for another 7,000 miles or so. I'm partial to Vittoria Randonneurs,** though Schwalbe Big Apples and Continental Gatorskins all have their partisans.

Also, though this may sound dumb, but you need to do it at least once: while out on a ride, find a place to pull over, deflate your tire, and change it. If you have someone with you, have them go off and get coffee or something—they can bail you out if things go wrong, but you need to do this by yourself.*** Changing a tire in a basement or bike shop where you are in control of the situation and can manage everything, including bad luck, is different than changing a tire on a roadside, in weather, without any of the tools, benches, or comfy chairs you've gotten used to. Even if you've changed dozens of tires before, you'll start drawing blanks the first time you have to change your own while riding.****

*Tire sizes are strange, but "700C" is the usual name for standard 622 mm diameter road wheels (used to be that, with a "C" sized tire, they were 700 mm across), while the second number indicates the distance from the inside of one wheel wall to the other. Of course, a 700x35 wheel doesn't always require a 700x35 tire—you can run a 700x40 tire if you'd like a bit more cush, albeit with more rolling resistance and slightly different handling. When in doubt, ask your Friendly Local Bike Mechanic—they've probably run every combination of wheel and tire, including the ones that Aren't Supposed to Work.
**Actually, I've had good luck with Vittoria tires in general, including the bargain basement Zafiro tires I run on my utility bike. After about 4,000 miles or so, I've only had two flats, both of which were caused as much by me being stupid on questionable roads as anything else.
***Also, you'll get coffee. Bonus!
****Especially if you still have the inner tubes that fit your old wheels, which no longer work on your new ones, and you didn't bother getting a patch kit because you'd never need one—after all, you carry a spare tube!

This is why I carry a patch kit and a spare tube: the tube's for my bike, the patch kit for everybody else's. Special bonus for being able to change any tire, anywhere: you can bail out other stranded cyclists, some of whom never learned how to change their own flats.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Pyx_e:
Now all you need is a 900cc engine and all will be well.
Not sure about the exact capacity of my own twin piston engine, but 900cc's sounds like about enough beer to make it run.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I have 700c-32s on my summer bike. I've been wondering if I'd notice much difference in ride with 35s or 38s. The roads here are a mess after an atrocious winter (potholes, cracks) and I do some brief trail which is dirt/gravel mix. The 35s for sure will fit with current fenders, 38s should, 40s would be too much I think. But really I'm looking at 35s, which can be had for $10 a piece in a current sale. The price makes me think an experiment might be worth it....
 
Posted by Welease Woderwick (# 10424) on :
 
I ride a bog standard gearless, or single gear, machine, very similar to this one, round a fairly flat area [river delta] but still a few small hills. I don't understand half of the technical discussion above but just know that cycling helps keep me a little bit fit, it gets me about town [crowded India market town 3 kms from our village] - and is FUN! We have puncture wallahs everywhere so no problems there. A step through [ladies?] bike of traditional pattern would cost about forty UKP [US$75?].
 
Posted by Huia (# 3473) on :
 
Doublethink I hope you find a cycle to suit you. Mine, a Specialized Ariel has given me a lot of pleasure. It was apparently designed by a short woman for short women as she was fed up with bikes that were not comfortable for her (I'm 5ft). All I can say is that as far as I am concerned she got it right.

I always ride with a helmet as they are compulsory here, and I don't ride after dusk as the roads are still being fixed after the quakes and traffic tends to be a bit feral, which just isn't enjoyable.

I am holding on for the next 3 years when (fingers crossed) more cycleways will be built.

Happy cycling.

Huia
 
Posted by QLib (# 43) on :
 
I've got Crap Knees (technical term), so I use an electric bike. It's not a solution I recommend to all, because the weight of motor+battery is huge, so you need extra power to just move the machine along. However, it gets me going from a standing start - particularly useful in traffic - and it (mostly) gets me up hills. For all legal purposes, it's a pedal cycle, so you can take it and park it anywhere an ordinary bike can go.

I think most 'real' cyclists are a bit sniffy about electric bike, but it's been enormously liberating for me and, though it was expensive (£800, and that was a discount, eight years ago) roughly it's also saved me a huge amount of money.

Anyone have any experience/advice to offer about folding bikes (not necessarily electric)? I worry about the balance.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I used to have a folding bike, it was quite stable once assembled. The problem was, it tended to bite me as it got folded and unfolded and occasionally if had assembled it wrong the saddle would drop like a dodgy office chair. Also although it folded small, it was fairly heavy for lugging on and off a bus.

Where you thinking of something like this.

[ 02. June 2014, 08:38: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by QLib (# 43) on :
 
I am thinking of something like that, yes, when the old bike passes on - which may not be long, because apparently a new battery for it would cost almost as much as that bike you linked to. But what about that actual make (Coyote)? Do you know anyone who's used one?

I'm aware that electric bikes are of very variable quality. I was lucky to get good advice before buying mine - I think I would need to research very thoroughly before splashing out on a new one.
 
Posted by hatless (# 3365) on :
 
The danger is that you will buy a bike, there will be something about it that you don't quite like, and you will just keep putting off getting it out of the garage or shed. It could be the looks, the saddle, a vague sense of not being in control when you sit on it, even the fear of it being stolen. Then it gets a flat tyre and it's never going to be worth sorting that out for one trip. A year goes past ..

So I would say you must be sure it's a bike it feels good to be out on. The more you ride, the more you will want to ride, the more you will think of riding, and the easier and more comfortable it will get. Buy the bike you're going to enjoy.

Hub gears are great because you just use them and never think about them. A chain guard is good if you might want to ride in trousers. Lights are necessary and hub dynamos mean you don't have to think about batteries. Panniers/basket/large saddlebag increase the reasons for cycling on any given trip. But all of these are heavy, and a light, stylish bike is fun, too.

A good LBS is a wonderful thing.

Remember that keen cyclists tend to end up with multiple bikes. In other words, however much you know about bikes and yourself, there really isn't one perfect bike out there for you. Whatever you finally go for will be a partial answer.
 
Posted by kingsfold (# 1726) on :
 
Paging Rosamundi....

If I remember aright, when Rosamundi was looking, she fell in love with and bought a Pashley princess sovereign, and has ridden it a lot around the place. She's probably about the same sort of height as you are and will have had the same sort of concerns as you about saddles, so it might be worth contacting her for her thoughts.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I am seriously considering one of those, Raleigh seem to do something very similar but slightly cheaper.

Hatless that is exactly my worry, and I think the less reasons I have not to use it the better. That is why hub type thingies are appealing.
 
Posted by Curiosity killed ... (# 11770) on :
 
Said Pashley has its own Twitter account. Rosamundi wasn't on Zephirine (iirc) last time I saw her, but Yangtze was on her bike. Deputy Verger and daisymay are also London cyclists.

I liked Giant because I'm another titch ~ 5‘2" ~ and they do frames that I can ride comfortably. Probably the children's / teenage / women's ranges. But I'm not proud.
 
Posted by Sandemaniac (# 12829) on :
 
The only thing I'd want to check about the Pashley is how much riding on hills you'll be doing, and how comfortable it is on them.

I had the loan of a Dutch Omafiets ("granny bike") twenty years or so ago, very similar design, and it was the most wonderfully comfortable bike I've ever ridden on the flat but very disconcerting on a hill as I felt as though I was going to fall off forwards/backwards depending on the direction of the gradient.

Good luck, though, cycling's great!

AG
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
If they did this in Europe I'd be seriously tempted - looks so comfy and a bit less twee than a pashley. I think it is the fat wheels.
 
Posted by lily pad (# 11456) on :
 
Those bikes are gorgeous.

I drive a 20 year old Minelli bike that I bought new from a discount bike shop. I've looked at the newer bikes, especially the ones with better seat posts and shocks but with this one, I don't worry about going into shops or leaving it to do anything inside for an extended period of time. My locks are good ones so my bike would be harder to steal and not very good for resale.

Having an older and less attractive bike means that I use it a lot more for transportation than for recreation.
 
Posted by hatless (# 3365) on :
 
I've been doing a short commute for two years on a Fahrrad Manufaktur bike - a German make. It's very heavy. Apart from that, everything I can think of to say about it is good. Comfortable saddle, fat tyres, superbly made, good value (mine was Ebay, but full price is about £650). After two years it has needed new pedals and new brake blocks.

You can see pictures and comments on this page from one of the two British dealers I'm aware of.

The bike I really want is one of these.
 
Posted by busyknitter (# 2501) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by QLib:


Anyone have any experience/advice to offer about folding bikes (not necessarily electric)? I worry about the balance.
I ride a Brompton and find it very stable and easy to handle. Most Brompton dealers will let you take one out for a test ride and you can try out the different handlebar types and heights. They are pricy, but they really are fantastic machines.

I love my Brompton so much that when my first, beloved machine was nicked a few months ago I found myself laying out the cash for a new one more or less the next day. This one I simply do not let out of my sight. If an establishment won't let me carry it indoors, they don't get my business (hasn't happened yet).
 
Posted by Gareth (# 2494) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ariston:
quote:
Originally posted by Gareth:
quote:
Originally posted by busyknitter:
But on the other hand the too-cool-for-school indie bike shop I called into one day was simply uninterested in helping me. He wouldn't even recommend another nearby shop.
That's the bit that tells me I'm dealing with an arsehole.
Dangit! My post got erased in the thread move!

There are a lot of "pro shops" out there looking for a certain type of customer—usually athletic, almost always male (the horror stories I've heard about bike shops from women…), often over 50, looks like he really thinks you can't find a good road bike for under $3,000 and wants a really good one, probably has friends who bike and therefore has Joneses to keep up with. Speaking as a possible future member of their target demographic, stay the @#$% away from these places, even if you are one of the few people they'll actually talk to.
I'm only 45, a decade past my last marathon, and far too scruffy to look like I'll spend that kind of money - maybe that's why they don't like the look of me.

Or maybe it's because I point and laugh at the men's lycra...
 
Posted by Karl: Liberal Backslider (# 76) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
Thanks I was never sure how to work it out.

Various sites have told me that at 5ft 4in (optomistic measurement) I thould be looking at a small frame - which I guess is the 17 in wheels thing.

I know I could ask a bike shop this, but I have previous traumatising experiences after taking halfords advice.
17" would be a frame size, not a wheel size. Outside of children's bikes, wheel sizes are independent of frame sizes.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Opinions on ballon tyres seem mixed, but presumably you can put them on any model of bike if you want to.

(Ta Karl)

[ 02. June 2014, 11:40: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Has anyone ever ridden one of one of these ? Tricycle's seem like they ought to be more stable, but they must be heavier, and I wonder what it does to steering and gears.
 
Posted by Welease Woderwick (# 10424) on :
 
It looks great for shopping! But I think it would be hell in the traffic here.
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
If possible, rent or borrow a bike first. Try it out. Everything depends on what you need it for and what you plan to do. If you need to carry things, if you need to go any distance, if it rains/is hilly/snows -- all these factors will affect your decision.

I never bike when it rains -- I live in a relatively dry climate. And so I have no fenders. A mist or drizzle is fine for commuting by bike, but if it comes to a serious downpour I take my car.
 
Posted by burlingtontiger (# 18069) on :
 
If you are the kind of person who likes gadgets and toys then just ignore my post. I started cycling again last year, just for a bit of fun and exercise. I hadn't been on a bike for well over ten years.

I got a second hand Apollo Corona mountain bike for £65. It's actually a woman's bike but it was the best one in the shop for the price and seems right for my height.

The woman in the shop says that it is heavy but I cycled for an hour, once a twice a day, quite happily, from last June until mid October. I managed to get out several times a week until Christmas and have just started up again this May.

I'd recommend a padded seat and, crucially, a helmet. I got my lights and helmet, sale price, for about £20 in total. I wouldn't wear the helmet when I first got it because I thought it looked daft. Common sense has now prevailed and I wouldn't be without it.

It has cost me about £30 in maintenance (three punctures) because I always had variable success in mending my own as a kid so don't bother now. I don't go off road now and so I avoid thorns.

So, my message is that it's a great hobby, doesn't need to be serious, and can be as inexpensive as you wish. Happy cycling.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Well, following excellent advice to consider second hand, find a *friendly* LBS, and test ride - I have done so !

I have got a 3 speed, mildly refurbished by a social enterprise, universal riviera sport that looks much like this . My plan is to pimp it gently over time. It is cheap, so if I decide to upgrade will not be too much loss. First thing I shall change is the saddle ...

(Gotta tweedy helmet with 30% off, am waiting on lights. Not planning to ride at night yet, and haven't decided what kind I want yet.)

[ 02. June 2014, 16:40: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Badger Lady (# 13453) on :
 
Another London Cyclist checking in. I have a pretty standard hybrid bike. Cycle daily to work - just under 6 miles of flat (excluding potholes!) road.

Saddles: consider a gel saddle cover. I found by bike seat to be unbearable when I first started riding (seriously, after the first week of daily commuting I could barely sit down). I used a gel cover. After a few months I got used to the saddle. I don't use the cover now.

Tyres: I'm a big fan of (properly inflated) puncture resist tyres. I cycle daily in London and they have seen me through all weathers.


Only 'cycle' clothing I would recommend is a very small light waterproof. Mine can virtually fit in a pocket and is very breathable.

Happy cycling!
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
My plan is to pimp it gently over time.
I don't think those words have ever been used together ever before.

Yeeeesssss…the Upgradeitus is overcoming you…soon you will understand…soon you won't think I'm weird…soon…soon…
 
Posted by Arethosemyfeet (# 17047) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
Has anyone ever ridden one of one of these ? Tricycle's seem like they ought to be more stable, but they must be heavier, and I wonder what it does to steering and gears.
Not one of those, but I do use one of these:
http://bakfiets.nl/eng/modellen/cargotrike/large/
as my main means of transport. It is very stable, and can deal with winds up to 70 or 80mph. They are expensive but they're very good quality and very well built.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Ariston:
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
My plan is to pimp it gently over time.
I don't think those words have ever been used together ever before.

Yeeeesssss…the Upgradeitus is overcoming you…soon you will understand…soon you won't think I'm weird…soon…soon…
I have invested in a non rusty bell and some white handle bar grips to match the mudguards. Oh and a mirror you attach to your helmet. Online is bad for you. Saddle search continues ...

(I got helmet, lock, puncture kit, seat rain cover & tiny chrome bicycle pump together with the bike.)
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Arethosemyfeet:
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
Has anyone ever ridden one of one of these ? Tricycle's seem like they ought to be more stable, but they must be heavier, and I wonder what it does to steering and gears.
Not one of those, but I do use one of these:
http://bakfiets.nl/eng/modellen/cargotrike/large/
as my main means of transport. It is very stable, and can deal with winds up to 70 or 80mph. They are expensive but they're very good quality and very well built.
I ams sure reversing the triangle helps.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
BTW This helmet.
 
Posted by hatless (# 3365) on :
 
I would recommend buying a 'track pump,' a vertical pump with a foot and a T shaped handle. You can't really take it out with you, but it's so much nicer to use than the little pumps, which can get you home if you have a puncture, but are awkward to use - it's the kneeling or squatting that I hate.

And gloves. If you come off, even if it's a slow wobble and a stagger to the ground, it's often your hands that get the most damage.

And a cycle cap. Ditch the helmet and get a little cotton cap with a tiny little peak.
 
Posted by Yam-pk (# 12791) on :
 
This applied liberally to the *ahem* nether regions works like a dream (coupled to a gel seat of course!) [Two face]

**sadly seems to be out of stock** [Frown]

[ 02. June 2014, 20:56: Message edited by: Yam-pk ]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
[tangent]

At school we used to render Deo Gratias as, Do you grease, your arse ?

[/tangent]
 
Posted by Sandemaniac (# 12829) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:


I have got a 3 speed, mildly refurbished by a social enterprise, universal riviera sport that looks much like this .
Does it get you from A to B? Then, at least for now, it's the right bike! You can work out far better what you do and don't want/like by actually riding it.

Incidentally, I second Hatless's(?) suggestion re a pump - by all means carry a small one for running repairs, but a stirrup pump-type one is so much easier to use, and you can pick one up for not much more than twenty quid. Keep your chain oiled and your tyres hard, and you've already covered 75% of routine maintenance.

AG
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by hatless:
And a cycle cap. Ditch the helmet and get a little cotton cap with a tiny little peak.
*Looks at username. Looks at advice. Looks back at username*

In all honesty, cycling caps are wonderful. I always wear one under my helmet—yes, I have a selection, with each one going with a particular bike (one does not wear the Bianchi or Belkin Pro Cycling caps when riding the Schwinn, nor the vintage Trek or Rivendell caps on the ultrasleek road bike—though the WABA cap goes with everything, just out of sheer awesomeness), particular weather, and particular mood. They go ever so well with my argyle bike socks and pinstripe shorts.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
You have infected me, I have just spent *three hours* online looking for cheap white pedals.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
I don't know if you can get these where you are, but they're grippy, lightweight, and nigh-well indestructible. Also, the looks people give you when you tell them you use Stolen™ Pedals is priceless.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
You misunderstand both my cheapskateness and retroness - I got these - very gentle pimping [Big Grin]

[ 02. June 2014, 22:33: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Anyone ever tried repainting or touch up with hammerite ?

I am wondering about a don't-nick-me brush on dark green hammered finish. Or may be light blue.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
Adjusting gears on a 9 speed Shimano rear derailleur. So far 2 evenings of fiddling. I have a book "Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance". He tells how to do it. Good book title, which I thought was merely a play on the 1960s book. It is not. He is a genius. I are an idiot. I do what he tells. I find adjusting for the low gears messes with the high gears. New respect for bicycle mechanics. Bike mechanics must be Zen masters to fiddle with endless such situations.


This is my bike, except mine is purple. Have a different seat and higher handlebars and a spring seat post and a rear basket.

Doublethink: just don't make the bike too beautiful. It attracts stealers. As for you, make yourself a beautiful as possible, and visible. It makes you safe and seen.

[ 04. June 2014, 02:26: Message edited by: no prophet ]
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
Leonard Zinn, framebuilder, author of VeloNews's Tech Talk, mechanical badass, and tall guy extraordinaire, is as good a guide as any, save an actual mechanic who can tell you exactly what's going on. Also, the Dew DL is a durn sweet commuter bike, IMNSHO.

Now, when you talk about "adjusting the gears," I assume you mean the limit screws? There are two things I'd recommend doing: first, adjust your cable tension using your barrel adjusters to increase it a bit. If you look on the underside of the bike, where the shifter cable comes out of the housing (right next to the spring on your downtube), you'll see a little black thingmibob that twists; tighten that. This will effectively make your shifter shift a bit harder each time you click the trigger. This should resolve some of the issues you have getting into low gears…if you have your limit screws set right.

To do that, shift into your lowest gear. You might want to be careful doing this right after tightening your cables, though; shift too suddenly, and you could throw your rear derailleur into your spokes (so spin your pedals slowly while you shift!). Once you're in position, adjust the limit screw visually so that your derailleur is directly underneath your largest cog. Then shift into your highest gear, and adjust the other limit screw so that the derailleur is perfectly aligned underneath your smallest cog. Then shift back to the largest cog, and, while the wheel is slowly spinning, push on the derailleur, as if you were trying to push it into the spokes. If you can do this, readjust. Then shift back to the smallest cog, but quickly; if you hear a roller coaster noise (or, more obviously, the chain comes off), readjust. Then back to the largest cog, this time quickly. Then back to the smallest one. Then back to the largest one, stopping at each gear to listen. Then the other way, doing the same thing. Then go for a ride, shifting through all the gears.

Anyone want to guess how many times I screwed that one up before I finally got it right? Here's a hint: adjusting the cable tension is very crucial, and, because my commuter bike is old and doesn't have barrel adjusters, I never thought to use them. For all the good things one can say about Zinn and his books (and there are a lot), there's more information in there about how to adjust a Di2 electronic shifting system, which most of us will never use for the foreseeable future, than there is about making a fussy Huret friction shifting derailleur work (if it ever did), much less the mountain bike shifters and groupsets you see on commuter bikes and hybrids.
 
Posted by Huia (# 3473) on :
 
Nice bike NP. It looks rugged, which I guess is what you need for the biking you do.

FWIW A couple of years ago I read a book called Bike written by a London bike commuter who claimed that bikes with baskets are much less likely to be stolen in London, which she attributed to baskets not being seen as cool. Personally I don't think bike thieves around here are so fussy so I always lock my bike. I have a basket that is easily removed on both my bikes and I usually take it in with me when I shop to avoid supermarket plastic bags.

I no engineering skills whatsoever and rely on the fact that all my cycling is within the metro bus area to get me home should something malfunction or puncture (all our buses have a bike carrying rack which I can reach as long as the driver "kneels" the bus). So far I have been ok.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I have a mountain bike for winter with studs. A neighbour gave me another one this week. I actually have 6 bikes in total. They are waiting in line to be ruined by winter riding. The commuter bike is the one for the snowless time, like these days.

Thanks Ariston for the advice. I did the limit screw thing last night. What is happening is that the bike goes nicely to largest cog and smallest, but 2 problems remain. First, when on largest cog, it takes 2 clicks to get to the next cog, then it will shift fine all the way to the third smallest. What it does then is jump to the smallest overtop of the second smallest. Thus: two clicks to get from 1st to 2nd gear. 1 click gets from 7th to 9th. If I hold the clicker I can make it stay in 8th. On the way to the office today (12 km), I followed Zinn's advice and left early, stopping about 6 times and this trip, loosening the barrel adjuster (clockwise, turning it in). This is what resulted in the holding the gear in 8th by manually holding the shifter clicker. I've decided that this is the worse problem. But maybe they are related. -- I would go to the bike shop, except they'd want it for a while or a day, and this is my transport! The 2 best shops are closer to my office. -- your post inspired me, I just called mid-typing, and am dropping by one after work.
 
Posted by Mrs Shrew (# 8635) on :
 
Jumping back a way, I have ridden a pashley picador tricycle(sadly borrowed and not my own)

Absolutely loved it for ease and carrying books and shopping. It is heavy though, so if you are on hilly ground it will wear you out.

The thing to be aware of is that, whilst they are really really stable on the flat in a straight line, it is relatively easy to tip them by taking a corner too fast. There was also that time, whilst stationary on a slight sideways incline, where I leant down sideways to hold the dog's collar so she would not jump up at a passing family in the park. I ended up upside down under the trike showing my knickers to said family. The dog was, of course, unharmed and bemused.

I would love to have one again though. For now I use the mountain bike I was given for Christmas as a teenager, as I appear not to have gotten taller after the age of 12
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
Update: bike shop diagnosed that the rear derailleur was misaligned as it hangs down. Corrected it. And they didn't charge me anything. Generous geniuses.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
Update: bike shop diagnosed that the rear derailleur was misaligned as it hangs down. Corrected it. And they didn't charge me anything. Generous geniuses.
Woo! Go them!

As for fun things on trikes: I have a friend of mine with a recumbent trike who views the "do not do this under any condition, it will void your warranty" information as a checklist for a great ride…especially if he can do all of them at once. There's a video of him somewhere on the Internet riding it under a long grandstand for the inauguration parade a while back where everybody else was stuck in rush hour traffic. When you're that low, You Can.
 
Posted by daisydaisy (# 12167) on :
 
A couple of days ago I saw a recumbent tandem.

I keep getting tempted by all the lovely step-through bikes I've seen on these links - I keep tripping over my bike when I try to step over the lowish cross-bar, which can be embarrassing. But this bike is OK (apart from having a bent/bumpy wheel that can easily be fixed) and so I am in a dither.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Huia:
Nice bike NP. It looks rugged, which I guess is what you need for the biking you do.

FWIW A couple of years ago I read a book called Bike written by a London bike commuter who claimed that bikes with baskets are much less likely to be stolen in London, which she attributed to baskets not being seen as cool. Personally I don't think bike thieves around here are so fussy so I always lock my bike. I have a basket that is easily removed on both my bikes and I usually take it in with me when I shop to avoid supermarket plastic bags.
Stolen bicycles. Big problem! Hateful. I always use 2 U-locks rated at the 9/10 level they rate these things with, and lock both wheels to the frame and both then to a rack or object that cannot be moved. 2 locks is the minimum. I have a Bike Box at my office, which is great. Otherwise if the area I need to park in looks risky, I will add a third chain lock. Locks I think are merely slow down devices for determine stealers.

I have also asked restaurants and stores about where to park, which has led to bringing it inside. But we are a low overall bike use area, unlike many other places, which would make that impractical. At summer events, the local bike association operates a bike valet service which is free. Paid for by sponsors. My bike is not top f the line by any means, but cost close to $800 (~£440). I noticed similar bikes in the UK seemed to be priced higher when we were there in April-May.
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
Locking a bike is like being chased by a bear. You don't have to outrun the bear, just whomever you're hiking with. So long as there's some poor schmuck on the same rack with a flexible cable and padlock (5 seconds with bolt cutters) next to your three-lock fandango (grinder wheel or cutting torch and the whole neighborhood noticing), you're good.

As a note to everybody else: lock your bike next to a nicer one. NP, sorry, but we're putting ours on the same staple or signpost as yours.

Bike valets, bike boxes, and transit-centered bike storage is/are slowly catching on around here. One of the metro stops nearby has an enclosed bike corral in the parking garage with staple racks inside; you need to scan an ID to enter and it's a little out of the way, so it's One More Thing to discourage bike thieves…and it's enclosed, out of the elements. I was just reading Elly Blue's Bikenomics, which discussed the impact having a secure bikeshed, a place out of the weather and the eyes of thieves, had in a low-income immigrant community, where people really couldn't afford to have yet another bike stolen. True, a suitably determined thief can get through any security measure, but most thieves are only so determined, so long as there are easier targets somewhere else.
 
Posted by QLib (# 43) on :
 
I use a RoyalGel saddle - can't find the make on line - I don't think it's Selle. I got it from my very knowledgeable local bike shop and it's certainly a lot more comfortable than the allegedly ladies saddle I had before which made my ladybits go numb quite rapidly.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
am currently ebaying for a second hand leather one (risky I know but I can always resell if I hate it) 1hr 17 min to go !I
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
I am fortunate in that I have a garage at my house, to keep my bike in, and when I bicycle to work I can roll my bike right in by my desk and use it for a towel horse. As a result I do not usually carry a lock at all.
 
Posted by Karl: Liberal Backslider (# 76) on :
 
Bike locks are why all bikes weigh 20Kg. However much your bike is itself lighter than this is the weight of the lock you'll need to carry around to secure it.

I leave mine on the Sheffield stand at work. That's the only time I need to lock up the "good" road bike. The knackered pub bike could be adequately secured with a piece of used dental floss.
 
Posted by Jane R (# 331) on :
 
Ariston:
quote:
So long as there's some poor schmuck on the same rack with a flexible cable and padlock (5 seconds with bolt cutters)...
Hah! Yes, I know this from personal experience... I was that poor schmuck, who realised just as she locked her bike to the railings outside the library that the key to the lock had been left 200 miles away at her boyfriend's house.

I went to the police station and asked for advice. They managed to keep their faces straight and sent a constable armed with a set of bolt-cutters to release my bike from bondage (on the grounds that a genuine bike thief wouldn't have the cheek to ask the police for help, I suppose). I don't think it took him 5 seconds; more like 2.

The next bike lock I bought was much stronger.
 
Posted by Huia (# 3473) on :
 
Outside the library was the best place to get your bike nicked here. I had one taken, but it was back the next day [Smile] In the plans for the new library (2017) there is to bemore secure storage.

Huia
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
The weather being exceptionally nice in these parts this week, I biked to work three days, for a total of 45 miles.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Waiting for my highly dodgy paint job to dry, done upside down with masking tape and Hammerite - finish is looking better than I expected. I didn't disassemble the bike - so masking taped the world.

Not sure what to do about rust on the chrome though ? I have some autosol won't remove - anyone got experience with that ?
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
Not sure what to do about rust on the chrome though ? I have some autosol won't remove - anyone got experience with that ?
How badly rusted? if it is just on the surface, gently using a plastic kitchen pot scrubber can remove most. For small areas, an old toothbrush. You can use a non-scratching kitchen or tub cleaner. It is usually white and liquidy. Try it on a small area first, you don't want micro-scratches. Toothpaste can also work for small areas. Both the tub cleaner and toothpaste contain very fine grit it seems. Though it varies from brand to brand. I've also used toothpaste to remove scratches from wrist watch crystals and countertops.

If it is really rusty, a wire brush may be needed, but you have to be really careful.

If you want to ignore the chrome after cleaning, you can simply paint with a rust paint primer and use the paint you have used for the rest of it. I have found the chrome paints a little disappointing. They are not really chrome-shiny. More tin foil like. Which may mean painting all of the chrome to get it to match. But then, it is a bike and too pretty means attractive to thieves.

I used to have a 1964 VW Beetle (just sold about 3 years ago actually, had it since 1978), and I went through its chrome thoroughly several times. Lots of experiments. -- Car wax on chrome is helpful after you have painted it. Wax on any rusty spots. When I say wax, I mean the paste or liquid wax for cars. A little goes a long way.. "Armor All" is a brandname, it comes in small bottles, I prefer the liquid to the spray for my bikes.

[ 07. June 2014, 16:27: Message edited by: no prophet ]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Some bits of chrome have flaked off - so I am thinking maybe chrome coloured enamel when I have polished what I can polish.

Just don't want rust entry points as it were.

I did wonder about hamerite silver, but I think that would be even less of a match.

On the plus side have now swapped my pedals and slowly wedging on my new grips (so shortly will have all white trim [Biased]
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
Putting grips on can be a real chore. It seems mostly a time consuming, hand hurting undertaking. I decided to reroute brake cables recently and had to take grips off (easier), and put back on. Probably there is a bike guru method for doing this....
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
I have one on, now girding my loins for the next. I went with combo of, tiny bit of oil, wedging a tent peg down the side, and pumping a bit of air thru the pin hole at the butt end of the grip + brute force.

[ 07. June 2014, 21:01: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
My hands may never recover, but the grips are done !
 
Posted by Firenze (# 619) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
I went with combo of, tiny bit of oil, wedging a tent peg down the side, and pumping a bit of air thru the pin hole at the butt end of the grip + brute force.
A bottle of rhum agricole and a stuffed elk and that could be a fun evening.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
My hands may never recover, but the grips are done !
It's one of those things you can celebrate and brag about only with those in the "know" I think. What kind of grips did you get? I have some shaped like these. the broader area for hands eases the pressure for me.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Basic white cruiser type ones with slight give in.

Basically have swapped out black grips for white, black pedals for white & waiting on a white saddle. This, so my trim matches my white mudguards. Body now painted in dark hammered blue hammerite.

Tis very mild pimpage, and got some of these lights [Smile]
 
Posted by Ariston (# 10894) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
Putting grips on can be a real chore. It seems mostly a time consuming, hand hurting undertaking. I decided to reroute brake cables recently and had to take grips off (easier), and put back on. Probably there is a bike guru method for doing this....
Firenze has the right idea, on so many levels…but mostly because of the rhum. The Bike Guru method I've seen used is a blast of air from the shop compressor to remove (launches the grip, that one does), but amply applied rubbing alcohol used as a lubricant when you're trying to pull it back on—unlike oil, the alcohol will evaporate, leaving nothing slippery between your grips and the bars. Sometimes, depending on the grip (I did this with my brake hoods, for instance), you can turn the thing inside out and roll it back onto your handlebar to some extent, then use the alcohol trick to slide it on at the end..
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I'm liking the alcohol idea. Step 1: poor a generous quantity into the grip installer.

Are there videos of grip launches? Visions also of cannons mounted on handlebars.

Doublethink: "pimpage". I like it! [Smile]
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Do any of you bother with indicator light sets - are they worth it ?
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by daisydaisy:
A couple of days ago I saw a recumbent tandem.

I keep getting tempted by all the lovely step-through bikes I've seen on these links - I keep tripping over my bike when I try to step over the lowish cross-bar, which can be embarrassing. But this bike is OK (apart from having a bent/bumpy wheel that can easily be fixed) and so I am in a dither.
I don't understand why a low step through isn't the standard, with a high bar being an exception for high end race bikes. I also don't understand why it is always described as a ladies bike when it has a step thru - surely unco-ordinated men have a fair chance of doing something terrible their dangly bits if they misjudge throwing their leg over the high bar ?
 
Posted by Welease Woderwick (# 10424) on :
 
I so agree! Getting my leg over [no, I don't mean like that] is getting increasingly difficult as I age and my joints seize up - my next bike is going to be a step-through.
 
Posted by Curiosity killed ... (# 11770) on :
 
Bikes are stronger with the high bar. It's to do with triangles being a better form of construction unit - a high bar gives that main shape of the frame based on two triangles (the main frame and the frame for the back wheel). A step through bike is less rigid in the frame. Last bike I had was this sort of shape
 
Posted by balaam (# 4543) on :
 
Which is why step through bikes tend to be heavier, and therefore harder to ride than a diamond frame. The extra needed rigidity is borne by having sturdier and heavier tubes.

For those interested in a Brooks saddle, Spa Cycles do their own equivalent saddles, named after Yorkshire rivers (Nidd, Calder etc.). Good for those in the UK, but check on the cost of postage for elsewhere.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Ooh, those look nice, thanks Balaam I will seriously consider. Have just come back from my first post-pimpage ride, knowing I **must** change the saddle. Successfully adjusted ride height though [Smile]

(Oh and I ended locking my bike on the bike rank opposite a road going unicycle - this city is wierd.)

[ 08. June 2014, 14:46: Message edited by: Doublethink ]
 
Posted by balaam (# 4543) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Doublethink:
Ooh, those look nice, thanks Balaam I will seriously consider.
Make sure you get the correct gender specific one, Dropping them an email would be a good idea. For me it is only a 50 mile round trip - just a ride away [Smile]
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I'm all about safety as I near 60. I have been hit twice. It makes me take a little longer and plan routes differently. Injuries were significant. T5 and T6 vertebral fractures (roughly shoulder blade level) in one, and 3 ribs in the second. Both were the car driver's fault, but I lost both times.

Indicator lights: No. But in the dark, which is essentially all winter to and from work, I wear an LED arm bands. Visibility and hand signalling. Link to arm lights

I also have a red light on my helmet which faces backwards and blinks. Front and back lights, and mini spare lights as well. Just in case.

I have a bell which I use mostly. If the bell is the right note, it often is well heard. But if I think people aren't seeing me or if there's a danger, I have a "Hornit" which is 140 dB. Enough that I don't want it pointed at me. I use it probably only once ever 2 or 3 weeks.

Ear phones and smart phones seem to have made many oblivious to everything. The illegality of phone use in cars aside.

Our local cycling advocacy association has helped a lot with these ideas.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Man that sounds painful !!

That makes me think I must do more about visibility - will have a little think.
 
Posted by Curiosity killed ... (# 11770) on :
 
I've broken ribs and an elbow in separate incidents, also had to wear long enough skirts to cover up wrecked knees more than once. Trousers stuck.

I have a photo showing the difference in visibility of bikes here. Those shots were all taken within ten minutes of each other, all on the same corner in pretty grim conditions.
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
Route planning is your friend. My commute is almost completely on a dedicated bike trail; I'm only on streets with cars for half a mile or so. All the accidents I have had involved ice or other loss of traction. But being hit by a car can kill you on the spot.
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
Oh, and there are genders to leather saddles, really? I am going to be in London in August, and should buy one...
 
Posted by Sandemaniac (# 12829) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
But if I think people aren't seeing me or if there's a danger, I have a "Hornit" which is 140 dB.
I would add the caveat to your horn (fnarr fnarr) that if you use it on a canal towpath people may well think you are a boat coming! I know this, I had quite a heated few words with another cyclist I pulled out on round a blind bridge abutment, who'd sounded their horn and, yes, I'd thought it was a boat and therefore unlikely to be cycling on the towpath...

Pretty much every other situation I can think of it sounds like a cracking idea!

AG
 
Posted by Curiosity killed ... (# 11770) on :
 
I guess you really think we have cycle routes that allow us to travel around without going on roads. London and the UK is nothing like Holland for cycling. The main dedicated cycle route through London is *interesting*. I'm not sure how many cyclists have been killed on it this year, but it's a few.

The route I cycled into work was about 1 mile cycle track and 6 miles country lanes taking my chances with the cars because it was better than 6 miles on the main A road with a roundabout with a motorway access, taking my chances with buses, cars, lorries and the rest -a two lane road.
 
Posted by Doublethink (# 1984) on :
 
Brenda, I would refer you to this article, alternatively, try googling "bicyclist's vulva".
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I go between 3 different offices each week. For one, I go on residential streets with "cut throughs" (also called cat walks) between houses which join various streets to make a more direct route for peds and cyclists, then to a dedicated trail. This is very happy trip.

For the second, I start on the same residential-cut through route, but then have to go alongside railway tracks, before carrying the bike over the tracks. All the while looking for trains. There is no other route. This route ends with a crossing of a busy 60 km/hr speed limit ped crossing which legally requires the trucks (mainly) and cars to stop, but they don't comply well. 4 lanes. Then I go through 2 parking lots before crossing a 6 lane as a ped. I get there faster cycling than I ever would in a car, but it is a "you can't get there from here" situation. --at the first ped crossing, have to be very careful. I had a car stopped for me in the curb lane a couple of years ago. and the car in the next land stopped suddenly, was rear ended and pushed about 40-50 feet. If I'd not hesitated, don't think I'd be typing today.

My third route involves some of those pretend cycling lanes, where they painted lines on the edge of the road with bike symbols and a lozenge shape. The cars enjoy whizzing past as close as they can.
 
Posted by Huia (# 3473) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
My third route involves some of those pretend cycling lanes, where they painted lines on the edge of the road with bike symbols and a lozenge shape. The cars enjoy whizzing past as close as they can.
Christchurch is full of these, and now that the sewerage infrastructure is being repired there are many places where all the traffic is being squeezed into half the road (the vehicle and the cycle lane). Wherever I see the sign that says Cyclists Merging I have a mental picture of a cyclist mashed against the front of a bus. Many have taken to riding on the footpath in these areas in sheer terror - me being one of them. There are more cycleways planned in the next 5 years or so but I am not sure I will still have the nerve to ride by then.

Doublethink, thanks for that article. I had briefly discussed soft tissue injuries with the blokes at my local bike shop but I didn't really understand the bio-mechanics of them.

Huia
 
Posted by Macrina (# 8807) on :
 
Huia, I very nearly did get merged in Christchurch cycling on Avonside drive. THAT cycle path is an absolute menace.
 
Posted by ecumaniac (# 376) on :
 
A friend is selling her tricycle and I went for a test drive today.

I really really want it!!!

I don't ride bicycles at all. I had exactly one terrifying lesson (about 2 months ago, at age 33) and concluded that two wheels aren't enough.

Does anyone have a trike? Are they a pain to park/secure where-ever you go? They are just bulky enough to make it almost impossible to transport in my car if required without virtually taking it apart. I can't imagine I'd be able to take it on a train easily, for example.
 
Posted by Brenda Clough (# 18061) on :
 
You might be able to get some kind of trailer or hitch for it, so that you could pull it behind your vehicle. Consider carefully also where you will store it at your house. Bicycles are bulky enough. A tricycle might call for its own bay in your garage or shed.
 
Posted by Arethosemyfeet (# 17047) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by ecumaniac:

Does anyone have a trike?
Yep! I have a cargo trike though which is a different beast. I also never take it to the mainland so parking and security are largely irrelevant - I use the built in keyed parking brake to stop it rolling away and park it in whatever space is handy.
 
Posted by HenryT (# 3722) on :
 
I learned to ride a bike at age 33 or so, and bought my only new bike at 35. I am still riding it, twenty years later. To learn balance, you want a gentle slope with no traffic. I was and am fortunate enough to have the right slope and quiet traffic right outside my house.

Some people even take the pedals off, learning just coasting downhill. I didn't bother. I did buy a helmet and roller blade elbow cups, also gloves. It took about a week to learn the balance and go round the block. With a month I was commuting to work.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
I was sent this rather interesting article

Cyclists should be able to roll through stop signs

It bases this on the fact that cyclists don't obey some traffic laws for good reason. They roll through stop signs and red lights if there aren't any cars coming.

The article says cyclists who disobey car laws are probably in the right, due to the energy required to go from stop to rolling, and that the laws, lights and signs weren't designed for them anyway. The article argues that it is probably safer and that bikes don't need the traffic calming methods required for cars.
 
Posted by mark_in_manchester (# 15978) on :
 
quote:
Does anyone have a trike?
We have one which I turned into a kind of kid-carrier - two kids (now 6 and 9, but I can just about pull them!) sit abreast facing backwards behind the rider and between the 20" rear wheels. It's adaptable so smaller kids can sit in the same place facing forwards. Luggage basket also can be used, sans-kids.

It's a laugh - but bulky and a pain to store. It's a Pashley Tri-1 which folds a bit, but still too bulky to put in the (small estate) car - it'll go in my trailer.

I'm thinking of selling it on now kids are big, if anyone is interested!

cheers
Mark
 
Posted by ecumaniac (# 376) on :
 
Too late, I have bought one off eBay!

Yesterday went to the local bike shop and got kitted out with helmet and locks and various other bits. Plan is to take it for a spin tomorrow evening...
 
Posted by Huia (# 3473) on :
 
I hope you have lots of fun with it ecumaniac [Yipee]
 
Posted by Qoheleth. (# 9265) on :
 
Puncture question .... I've used puncture-resistant tyres for a couple of years with no problems. This morning I spotted that I'd picked up a hefty tack, which wasn't actually leaking at all. So far, so good. However, I thoughtlessly extracted it before leaving work in the evening, leaving a hefty hole, and a flat tyre.

Problem is that the 'slime' inside the puncture-resistant tube won't now allow a conventional patch to stick. Even if I carefully dry it off, the oozing slime from inside appears to be dissolving the adhesive, and the patch just slides off. Ideas, please?
 
Posted by Karl: Liberal Backslider (# 76) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Qoheleth.:
Puncture question .... I've used puncture-resistant tyres for a couple of years with no problems. This morning I spotted that I'd picked up a hefty tack, which wasn't actually leaking at all. So far, so good. However, I thoughtlessly extracted it before leaving work in the evening, leaving a hefty hole, and a flat tyre.

Problem is that the 'slime' inside the puncture-resistant tube won't now allow a conventional patch to stick. Even if I carefully dry it off, the oozing slime from inside appears to be dissolving the adhesive, and the patch just slides off. Ideas, please?
I think this is the payoff. New tube.
 
Posted by sharkshooter (# 1589) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
...

It bases this on the fact that cyclists don't obey some traffic laws for good reason. They roll through stop signs and red lights if there aren't any cars coming.

...
So, because they break the law, we should change the law?
 
Posted by Jane R (# 331) on :
 
no prophet:
quote:
It bases this on the fact that cyclists don't obey some traffic laws for good reason. They roll through stop signs and red lights if there aren't any cars coming.
And quite a lot of them either don't bother to look for pedestrians or don't bother to stop for them, with the result that pedestrians attempting to obey the Little Green Man and cross the road without jaywalking can't do it without taking their lives in their hands*.

Just because there isn't a car coming doesn't mean there are no other road users who may be endangered by your cavalier attitude to road safety.

*Yes, I know more cyclists are killed by cars every year. Does that make it all right for cyclists to kill or injure pedestrians?
 
Posted by Carex (# 9643) on :
 
My bicycle has hung on a hook in the garage for over 20 years, but I've finally gotten it down now that I live close enough to work to commute on it. (The approach of winter may delay those plans somewhat, however.)

I will take it in to an LBS for their standard "overhaul", including inspection, regreasing, adjustment and replacing parts that need it. I have done it all myself in the past (like when I replaced the frame on my bicycle) but am happy to let someone else work on it now - that's probably the only way it will actually happen.

Bikes have changed a lot since I bought it (35 years ago?) Now mostly I see mountain/trail bikes with straight handlebars, but this is an earlier road model with the ones that curve under. The big question will be how much I've changed in that time - I may need a more comfortable saddle and/or a more upright posture. But just getting on the bike and being able to pedal it is the first step.


Fortunately no traffic circles on the way to work: one of my scariest experiences on a bicycle was getting forced into the inside lane of one somewhere on the west side of Christchurch and having to go around a couple of times before I was able to merge across to the exit lane.
 
Posted by piglet (# 11803) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Carex:
... I have done it all myself in the past (like when I replaced the frame on my bicycle) but am happy to let someone else work on it now ...
Like this bloke? [Big Grin]

Sorry - couldn't resist. As you were, troops, and best of luck with your new-found steed!
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by sharkshooter:
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
...

It bases this on the fact that cyclists don't obey some traffic laws for good reason. They roll through stop signs and red lights if there aren't any cars coming.

...
So, because they break the law, we should change the law?
Not sure if you read the link, and I wonder if you cycle very much. Recreational cyclists are often uniformed about commuter cycling.

The issues are:

1. Car drivers often either provide false courtesy by trying to wave cyclists through, yielding their right of way when they should not. This is unpredictable and endangers cyclists. it is frankly infuriating. This is the game of 'chicken' that causes accidents.

2. Because of false courtesy re right of way, cyclists often slow down ahead of time before intersections so the car will get there first, and hopefully go. This endangers the cyclist from cars behind who get annoyed with the cyclist's slow speed close to intersections.

3. Bicycles take an incredible amount of energy to go from a full stop to just rolling forward, thus, allowing a rolling, slow speed stop with not feet on the ground is sensible from an energy conservation standpoint.

4. Bicycles are expected to obey signs and traffic planning created for cars. Which is silly. We don't make pedestrians obey traffic signs for cars. There should be signs and planning for bicycles.

5. Painting lane marks on roadways does not make a cycling lane. Where I live many cycling lanes are on the wrong streets, e.g., car traffic calming measures like yield and stop signs are not necessary for bicycles and drain cyclists' energy.

[ 27. September 2014, 17:19: Message edited by: no prophet ]
 
Posted by sharkshooter (# 1589) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:
...

4. Bicycles are expected to obey signs and traffic planning created for cars. Which is silly. We don't make pedestrians obey traffic signs for cars. There should be signs and planning for bicycles.
...
I do bike, but not as a commuter. For a few reasons. One is the distance of about 30 km each way. Second is the problem of wearing a suit and tie on a bike or carrying it, and possibly a brief case or laptop bag, with me and finding a shower at work. Finally, the weather is not conducive to biking over half the year.

There are signs for bikes - the same ones as for all the other vehicles on the road!
 
Posted by Arethosemyfeet (# 17047) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by sharkshooter:

There are signs for bikes - the same ones as for all the other vehicles on the road!
I think no prophet's point is that those signs are designed with motorised, full width vehicles in mind, not pedal cycles. In that sense, while bikes are rightly expected to obey them, they are not "for bikes". no prophet is suggesting a different, complementary set of rules and signs should govern cycle traffic, just as it does pedestrian traffic.
 
Posted by sharkshooter (# 1589) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by Arethosemyfeet:
... no prophet is suggesting a different, complementary set of rules and signs should govern cycle traffic, just as it does pedestrian traffic.
Which makes no sense at all, unless they have their own roadways. Vehicles using the road obey one set of signs, those using the sidewalk (pedestrians - NOT bikes) have another. This is not that difficult.
 
Posted by Leorning Cniht (# 17564) on :
 
quote:
Originally posted by no prophet:

3. Bicycles take an incredible amount of energy to go from a full stop to just rolling forward, thus, allowing a rolling, slow speed stop with not feet on the ground is sensible from an energy conservation standpoint.
Living as I do in the land of the pointless four-way stop, this annoys me when I'm driving a car (and causes a measurable decrease in fuel efficiency). It annoys me even more when I'm cycling - particularly if I'm hauling the trailer containing the smallest Cnihtlet.

Most of the stop signs I go through on my way to work could be replaced with yield signs with no loss in safety and with an increase in efficiency of traffic flow - only one 4-way stop junction has dense enough traffic in rush hour that it's necessary to enforce alternating the priority.

So if cyclists treat stop signs as yield signs, do rolling stops and the like when there are no pedestrians in sight, it doesn't bother me.
 
Posted by no prophet (# 15560) on :
 
It's not my idea, it originated more than 30 years in Idaho in the USA. If you search "Idaho stop" in your favorite search engine, you will find quite a bit of information. Wikipedia about Idaho stop

I would advocate the "stop as yield" variation, where stop signs are yield signs for bicycles. Traffic lights are another matter. The rationale that it makes typical cyclist behaviour predictable at stop signs. I know some car people who either cycle not at all or only recreationally may not understand, but the data that prompted me from the local cycling advocacy organization persuaded me.

A parallel might be on our highways and freeways where we have posted speed limits of 100 or 110, but the traffic speed is typically 5 to 8 Km/hr over this posted limit. Those who adhere strictly to the posted speed and don't keep pace with the traffic cause dangerous motorist behaviour in terms of passing and line ups of cars behind the slower car. The reasons for the exceeding of speed limits as we understand them is that the speed estimates from police radar and lasers is within this limit of error and the courts don't enforce exact speed limits in consequence.
 
Posted by Dinghy Sailor (# 8507) on :
 
You sound like something by Gazelle may suit you.
 
Posted by Carex (# 9643) on :
 
I finally have my bicycle back! Turns out that the LBS I had talked with originally had closed in the meantime, but there was a smaller operation just around the corner that did a complete overhaul for about the same price. (There was a bit of a delay when they had to order a special tool that was unique to French bikes from around the 1970s.)

Got a helmet with it (I've never used one before) and still need lock, lights, and some other accessories. Riding it 10km home from the shop made it clear that I will need to spend some time getting my body readjusted to riding, and a gel saddle may be a worthwhile investment.
 


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